Did you need more proof that benzoin and vanilla belong together? Well, if you did, keep on reading.

Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille, you are one delicious fragrance. I get this opening of a “dark” vanilla and black licorice. Here’s the deal with the licorice, it’s super faint. Many wearers don’t notice it. I’m a lover of licorice. I notice this waxy black licorice with this sweet vanilla benzoin. It’s subtle and a wonderful addition to Un Bois Vanille. The vanilla mixes with toasted coconut flakes and toasted almonds. The dry down is a sweet vanila benzoin with smoky woods.

Notes listed include black vanilla absolute, licorice, sandalwood, coconut milk, beeswax, caramelized benzoin, bitter almond, Gaiac wood, and tonka bean. Launch date 2003. PERFUMER  - Christopher Sheldrake

Give Un Bois Vanille a try if you like vanillas that aren’t too sweet or if you like perfumes like Prada Candy, Parfumerie Generale Indochine, Costamor Dulcess, Pacifica Island Vanilla and/or Guerlain Myrrh et Delires. Un Bois Vanille is unisex.

I find that longevity and projection is average.

The 1.7 oz bottle of Un Bois Vanille retails for $120 at Beautyhabit and Harrods (UK). Sometimes you can find it on discount at Fragrancenet. 

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – One of those few gourmand vanillas that smells sophisticated. This is one of my personal favorite vanillas. Not too cloying or sweet. Gourmand and comforting.

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*Sample purchased by me. Product pic from Fragrantica. Dorothy Hall pic from www.fanpix.net Post contains affiliate links. Thanks!

“Out of the bottle, into the street.” Here’s what happens when perfume intersects with history and activism.

Christopher Street is the first fragrance by Charenton Macerations, a house devoted to giving us perfume with a story. Christopher Street is named after and inspired by the bohemian, beatnik and historically gay area in New York City, home of the Stonewall Inn and the location of the Stonewall Riots of June, 1969 (this is why Pride is every June). I could go into the story, but Charenton Macerations site and blog tells it better than I ever could. I want to talk about it but that would make this review 5000+ words…so I’m going to keep it simple.

Blast of tipsy green citrus shielding a spicy leather. Sweat dripping off skin. Clove cigarette smoke. Cumin sprinkled orange blossoms. Acrid incense. Damp alleys. Smoky patchouli. Dusty bookshops. Skin-like musk. This is my kind of fragrance.

Christopher Street has a vintage feel reminding me of popular fragrances of the 1960′s and early 1970′s; however, it has more “umph” and a certain sense of “otherness” making it unique.  It’s aggressive, not angry, but it’s proactive. It’s the longest wearing citrus heavy fragrance on the planet. It’s persistent and it should be to correspond with the story of Christopher Street (and every single liberation movement that occurred in the 60s-70s). It goes against the current fragrance trends, there are no worries about a demographic. Christopher Street exists to tell a story and it does. It’s a rebel with a cause. Remember, we’re not the problem. The problem with the social attitudes of the people around us. This applies to perfume. Wear what you want. OK, I promised myself I wouldn’t turn this into a gender + fragrance rant…this is about Christopher Street. And it’s a perfume that successfully tells a story.

Stonewall Inn today

Notes listed include alcoholic lime, bergamot, bitter orange, leather, tobacco, cinnamon, clove bud, “dance on skin”, orange blossom, poet carnation, incense, moss, musk, myrrh  and patchouli. PERFUMER – Douglas Bender in collaboration with Ralf Schwieger

Give Christopher Street a try if you are looking for a citrus with a backbone. Or if you like perfumes like Vero Profumo Mito, LUSH Dear John, Child Heir, Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet, Caron 3rd Man and/or Lancome Magie Noir (the vintage stuff). Christopher Street is unisex leaning more towards the masculine (in comparison to mainstream perfumes). I like to wear it when I’m dolled up in femme clothing and red lipstick. It provides a needed contrast that represents me and my personality. I also spray it on my denim. It does wonderful things on the fabric of denim cowboy shirts.

Sillage baby. Projection and longevity are above average.

Opening this bottle really is an experience. Every detail is planned out and it also has the “secret society” feel (works with the story here). The bottle comes in a cardboard tube and is wrapped in suede. At the bottom of the tube is a sachet of dried patchouli leaves. It’s a multi-sensory experience of texture and smells. It’s world rocking. What other brands are paying this much attention to detail?

The 1 oz bottle retails for $100 at Charenton Macerations. 

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Boozy citrus over spiced leather and liberation (which sort of smells like sweat and incense). Perfume activism. There’s symbolism galore in this fragrance! Watered down booze to compensate for the costs of buying off the vice squad, underground symbolism (like carnation), notes of the rebellious 60′s (incense and patchouli)….It should be mandatory sniffing in all queer studies courses around the globe. It should be mandatory sniffing for anyone that loves perfume. I love it.

*I highly recommend viewing the 1980′s documentary “Before Stonewall“.

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*Disclaimer – Product provided by Charenton Maceration. I am not financially compensated for this review. My opinions are my own. Pictures are mine.

A Beautiful Life PoP is a vegetal musky fragrance that reminds me of hazy summer days. A portion of the profit sales are donated to The Hero Initiative, a non-profit organization that helps comic creators in need.

Pop opens as an herbaceous musky clary sage with a hint of pear and peach. Because of this, I’m reminded of white varieties of lavender – slightly fruity but very herbal and crisp. With time I get a peach sprinkled in dried, ground ginger that adds a warmth. Like I said, it reminds me of lazy, hazy summer afternoons.

Notes listed include cherry blossom, white peach, ginger and clary sage. 

Give PoP a try if you like herbal fragrances. Or if you like perfumes like Tom Ford Lavender Palm, LUSH Euphoria, Penhaligon’s Lavandula and/or Maria Candida Gentile Luberon. PoP is unisex and a nice choice for day wear or wear in warmer climates.

The bottle is simple but the label is awesome. It’s perfect.

PoP has average projection and below average longevity. I’d compare it to an EDT.

The 2 oz bottle retails for $52 at ABL Brands. 

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Vegetal musk with spiced peach. It’s one to try if you like naturally fruity lavenders or if you like herbal fragrances.

*Disclaimer – Product provided by ABL Brands. I am not financially compensated for this review. My opinions are my own. Pic is mine. Those are articulation cards used in a standardized speech test from the 1940′s

Mainstream Monday – Sniffing a Popular (limited edition) Perfume

Every summer Issey Miyake launches a summer edition of L’Eau d’Issey. It’s slightly tweaked with “summery” notes and comes in a different bottle. This year is all about the tropical fruits; they’re even on the bottle  It’s not the cutest Issey Miyake summer bottle (I always liked the coral one), but it’s cute.

Issey Miyake Lea Eaux d’ete opens with aquatic melons and familiar elements of the original L’Eau d’Issey such as lily of the valley and dewy florals (I get jasmine). The difference is that there is an addition “iced” summer fruits. What I like about the fruits is that it adds a freshness, a juiciness, and not “sweetness”. The grapefruit is sulfuric and the other fruits are watery. The dry-down is much like the original Issey Miyake. It’s clean, warm “driftwood” with lots of white musk.

I actually prefer the summer editions over the original Issey Miyake L’eau d’Issey. From a person that doesn’t like the original, I know it doesn’t seem like I’m saying much. But, I am. I wouldn’t dare wear the original but I wear this (I’ve actually worn a lot of this). I like the “lightness” of the summer version and the fruits really add something to those watery florals. In my opinion, it’s an improvement.

Notes listed include pink grapefruit, lychee, passion fruit, guava, aquatic floral notes, woods and vanilla. Launch date 2013. PERFUMER – Alberto Morillas

Give Lea Eaux d’Été a try if you like watery floral perfumes. Or if you like perfumes like the original Issey Miyake, NEST Passiflora, Escada Island Kiss, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea (including summer editions) and/or Davidoff Cool Water for Women. It’s a “fresh” scent that really does work well in warmer climates.

Projection and longevity are average. I think this wear more like an EDP than an EDT. The fruits fade rather quickly but I’m with florals and musk for 6+ hours.

The 3.3 oz bottle retails for $72 at Nordstrom and Harrods (UK).

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Updated L’Eau d’Issey. Fresh, fruity, aquatic floral. Writing about perfume, I know I’m supposed to hate anything “aquatic” (and especially designer) but I don’t. I risk losing some “street cred” but whatever.I think this one is well-done for this genre. It works in the heat. It’s fresh, fruity and casual. I like it in the way that I like Elizabeth Arden Green Tea. It’s something I don’t mind wearing when it’s warm and I’m lazy and I want to come across as I’m trying. 

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*Product provided by PR. I am not financially compensated for this review. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Fragrantica. Marilyn Monroe pic from www.fanpix.net. Post contains  affiliate links. Thanks!

Imagine having a perfume with the badass attitude of Piguet Bandit but with the feminine face of Patou Joy. Now stop imaging and spray a few lavish spray of House of Matriarch Destiny.

Destiny opens with a blast of citrus sunrays over filthy floral indoles. The flowers bloom. They’re big, bold and beautiful. The florals become more crisp and green with time. The neroli in this is some of the best I’ve ever sniffed. This mingles with cooling white florals and more sharp green leafy notes. The dry down is a mossy floral with a heavy helping of moss. Destiny is a white floral chypre (which is not easy to find in today’s market).

This fragrance was originally created to fight SAD (Seasonal Affective Disorder). The perfumer is based in the Seattle area and if you live here you’re unfortunately familiar with SAD. I found myself drawn to this on in the dark winter months. I’m telling you, there’s something to it.

Notes listed include jasmine, gardenia and oakmoss. Launch date 2012. PERFUMER – Christi Meshell

Give Destiny a try if you like white florals. Or if you like perfumes like Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia, Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss, Pacifica Tahitian Gardenia, Ralph Lauren Lauren, Patou Joy and/or Piguet Bandit. I perceive Destiny as a feminine fragrance because of the big ‘ole white florals. However, she has attitude and anyone with attitude can wear it. And this fragrance is seasonless, I enjoy just as much on 30º days as I do on 80º days.

Projection and longevity are average (which is above average for an all-natural perfume).

Destiny comes in a few sizes with prices ranging from $120-$250 at House of Matriarch. Samples are also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – White floral chypre. It’s absolutely gorgeous.

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*Decant purchased by me. Product pic from House of Matriarch. Zorita from www.fanpix.net

Olfactive Studio is a line of perfumes inspired by photography. Still Life is inspired by a disco ball photograph by Frédéric Lebain. With the name, one would expect a rather mellow fragrance. However, Still Life is an energetic cocktail with citrus and spice.

Still Life opens with a spicy, bitter and bright citrus. The fragrance hits your nose with its energy. It reminds of limoncello…with an addition fruity pink pepper and spicy black pepper…which doesn’t sound like a bad cocktail, does it?  The feel of this fragrance is a modern citrus. The heart is boozy and spicy…it is reminding me of a cocktail. Rum has been added to the limoncello and spices. And there’s possibly a sprig of mint. The base is warm, ambery woods that smell clean and never really get rid of the scent’s “fresh” character.

I mean this in a nice way, Still Life reminds me of a good “sport” fragrance for men (and women too!) because of the fresh, effortless character of the fragrance. Apparently, the world wants something “sporty” and “easy to wear”. I’m 100% fine with that, but if you want something like that get something good. Still Life is good.

Notes listed include yuzu, elemi, pink pepper, black pepper, Sichuan pepper, star anise, galbanum, dark rum, cedar and ambrox. Launch date 2011. PERFUMER – Dora Arnaud

Give Still Life a try if you like citrus fragrances. Or if you like perfumes like Penhaligon’s Opus, Cartier eau de Cartier, D&G Light Blue, Chanel Allure Homme Sport, Issey Miyake L’eau d’Issey Pour Homme, Atelier Cologne Bois Blonds, and/or Kenzo Toyko. Still Life is unisex. I think it’s a really good replacement for “casual” mainstream fragrances.

Still Life has average projection and above average longevity for a citrus perfume. I get about 5-6 hours of wear on warm days, even longer on cooler days.

Still Life comes in 2 sizes with prices ranging from $145-$195 at Beautyhabit. 

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – A modern spicy citrus: spiced limoncello. I am not a “citrus person” but I do like this one because it lingers and because it’s boozy.

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*Disclaimer – Sample provided by Olfactive Studio. I am not financially compensated for this review. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Fragrantica. Post contains an affiliate link. Thanks!

Houbigant’s newest launch, Orangers en Fleurs is an orange blossom perfume. The house is rather classic with such fragrances as Quelques Fleur. Orangers en Fleurs isn’t a ground-breaking fragrance but it’s beauty and sophistication really fits with the Houbigant line. I welcome this addition.

Orangers en Fleurs is a big orange blossom with dewy rose. There’s a vague traced of frutiy raspberry jam. At this stage, it’s a “green” white floral with a little bit of citrus bitterness. The heart of Orangers en Fleurs is orange blossom and jasmine. It then becomes a spicier floral, still big and “white” but spicier. The dry down is creamy white florals with white musks and a hint of cedar. Orangers en Fleurs is a graceful perfume.

Here’s the deal Orangers en Fleurs is a gorgeous orange blossom with more than just orange blossom going on fragrance. However, it is very similar to Serge Lutens Fleurs d’Oranger which I own and actually prefer over the Houbigant one. Serge Lutens’ is a bit more dirty and sweaty. Orangers en Fleurs is cleaner but still too close to Serge Lutens for me to add it to my collection. I can see orange blossom fans adding both, but I don’t see the need for my collection.

Notes listed include orange blossom, rose, Egyptian jasmine, tuberose, petitgrain, ylang-ylang, nutmeg, cedarwood and musk. Launch date 2012. PERFUMER – Jacques Flori

Try Orangers en Fleurs if you like orange blossom perfumes. Or if you like perfumes like Serge Lutens Fleurs d’Oranger, The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit, Montale Jasmin Full and/or Acqua di Parma Gelsomino Nobile. It’s a big ‘ole floral so many people will classify this as a feminine. If you like orange blossom, try it.

Upon initial application, Orangers en Fleurs has above average projection and sillage. Longevity is average for an EDP.

The 3.4 oz retails for $180 at Nordstrom. 

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Gorgeous orange blossom. If you grow tired of the sweatiness in Serge Lutens Fleurs d’Oranger, try this one instead. Also this line makes body products and I bet they smell wonderful layered under this or the Serge Lutens one.

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*Sample provided by PR. I am not financially compensated for this review. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Fragrantica. Carole Lombard pic from www.fanpix.net Post contains an affiliate link. Thanks!

Mainstream Monday – Sniffing a Popular Perfume

I’ve always admired the genre of green fragrances but they used to intimidate them. They were sharp, crisp and I always imagined they carry a small clutch and have a really organized desk. You see, I didn’t relate to green perfume. They weren’t “me”. I’m scatterbrained, carry a big bag and have the world’s messiest desk. After being into perfume for over 10 years, green perfumes have grown on me as my experiences have broadened. Chanel Cristalle EDP was my gateway green.

Cristalle opens with bitter galbanum and tart peach. I also get tarragon and muddled Italian basil in a glass of iced lemonade. There’s a big spring bouquet white florals and hyacinth mingling with a luscious jasmine. Being a Chanel, it’s abstract and you’ll still get citrus, bitter greens and tart fruits (lots of peach). And then there’s the moss. It dries down to a summery chypre with dry vetiver and moss.

Notes listed include mandarin, peach, melon, ylang-ylang, jasmine, vetiver and oakmoss. Launch date 1993. PERFUMER – Jacques Polge

*Note the EDT was launched in 1974 and the perfumer was Henri Robert. The EDT and EDP are different. The EDP is sweeter and denser. I say it is more like a “simple syrup” of Cristalle.

Give Cristalle a try if you like green florals. Or if you like perfumes like Vero Profumo Mito, Chanel No. 19, Estee Lauder Estee, Dior Diorissimo, Miller Harris Jasmin Vert and/or Tommi Sooni Jinx. Cristalle is a “classic” feminine at this stage but I view it as unisex. It’s brisk and refreshing. Perfect for a summer day, if you want more crispness, seek out the EDT.

Projection is above average and longevity is average.

The 1.7 oz EDP retails for $85 at Nordstrom and Harrods (UK).

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Peachy green floral. Classic and it will forever belong in my collection.

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*Marilyn Monroe pic from www.fanpix.net. Post contains affiliate links. Thanks!

Aftelier Secret Garden is a perfume inspired by the 1910 novel by Frances Hodgson Burnett. My little macabre girlself that drew witches on my report cards rather liked this story. A girl’s parents die and she gets to go live in a big ‘ole house. She cleans up a garden and practically heals her cousin by convincing him he can walk. Female empowerment, independence, a garden that cures all your emotional problems. I haven’t read it since I was at least 8, but I remember loving it.

Secret Garden opens up with root beer cola. It’s effervescent. I get a hint of fruity orange marmalade.  Secret Garden surprises me with how much it blooms once on the skin. The heart is the “loudest” on me and has the most projection. It’s a smoky rose with civet and soft, slightly damp florals. It’s vegetal musky. The dry-down of Secret Garden is a sweet benzoin-vanilla with patchouli with rose. It’s like a benzoin Turkish delight.

Notes listed include bergamot, bois de rose, Geraniol, blood orange, jasmine sambac, raspberry, Turkish rose, blue lotus, civet castoreum, vanilla, deertongue (plant), benzoin and aged patchouli. Launch date 2011. PERFUMER - Mandy Aftel

Give Secret Garden a try if you are looking for a sweeter but smoky floral. Or if you like perfumes like Vero Profumo Rubj EDP, HEELEY Hippie Rose, Sonoma Scent Studio Rose Musc and/or Guerlain L’Heure Bleue. Secret Garden is unisex.

Secret Garden has above average projection and longevity for a natural perfume.

The 1/4 oz parfum retails for $170 at Aftelier.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Musky sweet. It’s complex and interesting. It fits with the story and it really does have a turn of the century feel.

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*Disclaimer – Sample provided by Aftelier. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Aftelier. Secret Garden pic from Wikisource.

Ramon Monegal Lovely Day is sweet with an edge. And that’s how I want my lovely days to be.

Lovely Day opens with a juicy, fruity cassis with a sugar cube iris. The fragrance becomes candied, but in a floral way. It reminds me of rose pastilles and blackcurrant jam. It then turns into a soft floral, like jasmine tea, with a hint of licorice rolled in powdered sugar. It wears as this for most of the wear. There is an addition of a sweet, dry cedar at the dry-down.

Lovely Day is a pretty perfume, really pretty but it has an edge. I couldn’t really put my finger on it the first few wears. There’s something sort of latex-y in Lovely Day. That’s sort of awesome. It blends in with the powdery, sugary notes adding a needed weirdness. So it comes across as “pastel goth”/Japanese street style to me.

Best 1930′s fashion. Ever.

Notes listed include sambac jasmine, rose, licorice, iris, cedar and cassis. Launch date 2011. PERFUMER – Ramon Monegal

Give Lovely Day a try if you like candied floral perfumes. Or if you like perfumes like Bvlgari Jasmin Noir, Etat Libre d’Orange Charogne, Montale Jasmin Full, S-Perfume 100% Love and/or CREED Love in Black. It’s a fruity-floral so many are going to associate it with the feminine.

Fun fact #1 – David hates Lovely Day.

Fun fact #2 – I don’t give a hoot.

Fun fact #3 – Despite his hatred of this fragrance, he summed it up nicely for a person that claims to be a non-perfume person. He said, “This smells like if Chanel tried to make a rendition of Guerlain Insolence“. I can see this.

Lovely Day has average projection and above average longevity. I get 10+ hours wear.

The 1.7 oz bottle retails for $185 at Luckyscent. Samples are also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – A slightly “fetish-y” candied floral. Sweet but wearing black latex opera gloves. I like it. It’s not one for everyone as it does have a chemical “offness”. But, that’s why I like it.

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*Disclaimer – Sample provided by the brand. I am not financially compensated for this review. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Luckyscent. Irene Dunne pic from www.fanpix.net.

After years of wearing spicy oriental and the occasional gourmand perfume, I decided that I needed a change. I had dismissed floral perfumes for no good reason (well, looking back I blame Bath & Body Works). I went on a floral journey that left me justifying my dismissal of floral perfumes. I thought I needed spice, vanilla, moss or whatever to feel like a “Victoria” perfume. Years later, it hit me that there is power in wearing a perfume that isn’t “you”. I needed what I called a “blonde wig” for my perfume collection. I want an out of character perfume, a perfume that was like a subtle disguise. I ended up with a full-bottle of Serge Lutens Un Lys.

Un Lys opens with lemons, green leaves and black licorice. Here come the florals – a mix of powdery hyacinth, sharp lily of the valley and an indolic lilac verging on jasmine. It reads as one big ‘ole lily with a hint of green. And there’s lots of vanilla there to sweeten it up in the heart. The deal is that sometimes to my nose it smells like vanilla and lilies. Other times I get vanilla, lily and plastic. But, that’s why I like Un Lys. It reminds me of a Barbie doll. The dry-down is a lily with tons of sweetened white musk. Yep, this is my blonde wig of perfumes. And not just blonde, it’s platinum blonde.

Notes listed include lily, musk and vanilla. Launch date 2007. PERFUMER — Christopher Sheldrake

You’ve got to want a straightforward floral to want to wear Un Lys. Give it a try if you like Tom Ford Private Blend Lys Fume, Annick Goutal Grand Amour, YOSH Stargazer, Donna Karan Gold EDT and/or Parfums de Nicolai Kiss Me Tender. Being a big ‘ole floral many people are going to associate this with the feminine. And associate it with the beautiful.

Projection is above average (it’s also possible I spray too much) and longevity is average.

The 1.7 oz bottle of Un Lys retails for $140 at Beautyhabit.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Vanilla lily. I know it’s supposed to be a vanilla lily but I often think of it as a lilac vanilla disguised as a lily vanilla.  But, this is coming from someone that uses Un Lys as her perfume disguise.

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*Purchased by me. Product pic from thisnext.com. Marion Martin pic from www.fanpix.net. Post contains an affiliate link. Thanks!

Smell like all of the spring flowers with Neil Morris Rainflower.

Rainflower opens with a blast of spring florals. I pick up on the hyacinth mingling with lilac. Heady, green and peppery with a hint of wet dirt.  Tons of flowers. I get a heady gardenia. The dry down is a light, abstract floral musk. You’ll get your spring floral fix with this one.

Notes listed include freesia, night blooming jasmine, hyacinth, gardenia, lilac, tulip and musk.

If you want to get along with Rainflower, you better love florals! Give it a try if you like perfumes like Pacifica French Lilac, Estee Lauder Beautiful EDP, YOSH White Flowers, FRESH Pink Jasmine and/or Annick Goutal Grand Amour. Rainflower is very floral, so many people will perceive this as feminine.

Projection and longevity are average.

The 2 oz bottle retails for $95 at Neil Morris Fragrances. Samples are also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Spring flowers galore. I have to be in a special mood to wear something like this, but it’s good.

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*Sample purchased by me. Product pic from Fragrantica.  Lizbeth Scott pic from www.fanpix.net.

You know the saying, “Don’t dress for the job you have, dress for the job you want”? I say this applies to fragrance as well. M. Micallef Royal Vintage smells polished and successful, if that’s you or if that’s who you want to be, wear Royal Vintage.

Royal Vintage opens with non-descript fruity notes, pink pepper and gin. Give it time and you’ll get an astringent citrus and powdery lavender with vetiver. And then here comes the leather. It rugged with evergreens, slightly smoky. There’s a dry sagebrush. It dries down to dry woods, musk and new leather.

Royal Vintage smells like a traditionally masculine fragrance meaning that it isn’t really exceptional. However, it does smell really good and high-quality. Personally, I wouldn’t wear this fragrance because it is out of my comfort zone but I love to smell this on masculine types. My imaginary sugar daddy wears this fragrance.

Notes listed include pink berries, bergamot, cypress, leather, patchouli and musk. Launch date 2013.

Give Royal Vintage a try if you are looking for a good “suit” fragrance. Or if you like perfumes like CREED Aventus, Amouage Memoir Man, Gucci Pour Homme, Halston Z-14 and/or Clive Christian C. This one is marketed as a masculine.

I find projection average and longevity above average.

Bottle is like a vintage hubcap. I like that.

The 3.3 oz bottle retails for $185 at Parfumerie Nasreen. Samples are also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – “Classic” masculine that says “success”. I have a thing for any late 70′s and 80′s masculines. Royal Vintage has that powerhouse feel but it is updated for today’s world. When I smell this, I smell suit wearing sugar daddies with perfectly coiffed hair.

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*Disclaimer – Sample provided by PR. I am not finacially compensated for this review or any others. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Fragrantica. Errol Flynn pic from www.fanpix.net

As you know by now, I’m a fan of the Neela Vermeire Creations line. I think the compositions are intellectual but suitable for daily wear. I also love that India is the inspiration. I see this type of collaboration being the future of perfume.

Bombay Bling is my favorite fruity fragrance on the planet. It opens with a tart but sweet fruit salad of lychee, mango and peach drizzled with blackcurrant syrup and topped with carrot shavings. Hey, what’s that? Oh, it’s just cumin making me smell like one sexy, spicy beast.  A melange of petals over a spiced fruit salad with a side of kebabs. The dry down is a sweet vanilla tobacco. So sweet and creamy…Bombay Bling is a vibrant fragrance that has earned its name. Oh, and it’s very Duchaufor-ish. You can tell he composed this.

Notes listed include lychee, mango, blackcurrant, cardamom, cumin, cistus, Turkish rose, jasmine sambac, ylang-ylang, tuberose, plumeria, gardenia, patchouli, tobacco, sandalwood, cedar and vanilla. Launched in 2012. PERFUMER – Bertrand Duchaufour

Give Bombay Bling a try if you are looking for a really intellgient fruity floral. Or if you like perfumes like Vagabond Prince Enchanted Forest, Etat Libre d’Orange Rien, L’Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh, Serge Lutens Arabie, Vero Profumo Rubj and/or any of the other Neela Vermeire Creations. It’s fruity and sweet but the spice and tobacco make it completely unisex in my opinion.

On me, Bombay Bling has mega sillage and longevity.

The 1.9 oz bottle retails for $250 at Luckyscent.Smaller “discovery” sizes are available at Neela Vermeire Creations.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Spiced mango fruit salad with delicate petals and a creamy base. This my favorite fruity fragrance ever. It’s complex without being challenging. It just smells good and makes me happy.

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*Sample came from Neela Vermeire Creations. My opinions are my own. I am not financially compensated for this review or any others. Norman Parkinson fashion photo from 1956 from www.fanpix.net.

Jul et Mad is a new French perfume line created by 2 young lovers. Amour de Palazzo is a perfume inspired by a romantic trip to Venice. Never having one of those, my impressions of Amour de Palazzo is different. When I first wore it, I imagined the dressing rooms hidden in an old opera house at the turn of the century. It’s a diva dressing in her quarters.

Amour de Palazzo opens as a spicy patchouli (lots of ginger, lots of clove). It wears as this for some time and then there’s a smoky leather. Oud appears but it isn’t sharp. It’s round and sanded smooth; think of oud-amber. The dry-down is warm musks and kitty cat fur.

Notes listed include pepper, ginger, cloves, nutmeg, violet, atlas cedar, leather, Indonesian patchouli, labdanum, musk, oud, papyrus, and castoreum. Launch date 2012 . PERFUMER – Dororthee Piot of Robertet

Give it a try if you like classic oriental perfumes. Or if you like perfumes like Histoires de Parfums 1826, original Prada, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fetiche, Tauer Lonestar Memories, Puredistance M and/or Amouage Epic Woman. Amour de Palazzo is unisex. I think it’s best suited as an “evening” fragrance or for fall/winter wear.

Amour de Palazzo has average projection and above average longevity.

The 1.7 oz bottle retails for $280 at MiN NY and Jul et Mad (Euro).

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Opera house oriental with spices, patchouli, amber and oud. I rather like it and I supposed if I tried it in cool weather, I’d love it. But, I don’t love the price. Saying that, it does smell luxurious and expensive.  I’m not talking about its quality. I’m talking about me personally and how much I’d use it. This is a glamorous fragrance but I have so many orientals in my collection. I’m probably going to be embalmed in them…

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*Disclaimer – Product provided by Jul et Mad. I am not financially compensated for this review. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Jul et Mad. Tallulah Bankhead pic from www.fanpix.net. More glamour than you can shake a stick at.

I’m familiar with the Juara line because of their skincare and body products. It’s a high-quality line inspired by Indonesia. Their face cleansers and body butter are addictive. One of the things that you’ll notice about the line, if you try their products, is their fragrance (well, and how soft your skin is). I’m sure that the Juara Candlenut perfume was made because people loved how the Candlenut Body Crème smells.

Candlenut is a fresh green tropical floral with warm coconut. The coconut in this isn’t too heavy or creamy. It reminds me more of a fresh coconut or coconut water. I get ripe tropical fruits like mango, banana and pineapple mingling with airy flowers. Being an oil, it’s linear but it smells good. It’s tropical and something I want to wear in the summer. It reminds me of a beach vacations.

If they made a hair line scented with this,  I’d be a very happy lady.

Notes listed include greens, freesia, jasmine, bergamot, rose, and coconut. 

Give Candlenut a try if you like tropical fragrances. Or perfumes like Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess, Byredo Pulp, CREED Virgin Island Water, Laura Mercier Almond Coconut and/or Pacifica Indian Coconut Nectar. I think this is an excellent “budget” beach fragrance.

Candlenut has above average projection and longevity for a perfume oil.

The rollerball retails for $28 at drugstore.com. 

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Coconut water, fruits and airy flowers. It’s a great budget beach scent.

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*Product a gift from a wonderful blogger pal, Eyeliner on a Cat. Perfume pic from drugstore.com. Ruth Sewlyn pic from www.fanpix.net. Post contains an affiliate link. Thanks!

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In the fragrance world, there are two types of people. Those that love Angel and those that hate Angel. You need to know that I’m an Angel lover. I rarely ever where it but I really admire it as a non-conformist composition. And I like patchouli. Mugler Angel, regardless of how polarizing it is to people’s sniffers, is a classic now. We’ve seen copycats and many flankers. Angel Aqua Chic 2013 is “eau de toilette légére”, a lighter version for summer. There may be two types of perfume people in the world, but I think we can all agree that the original Angel is a beast in the heat.

With Angel Aqua Chic 2013, I get a peaches, nectarines and plums opening with “fresh” raspberries instead of the red berry syrup in the original Angel. It’s a summer fruit market. It becomes a sheer, fruity rose like a rosewater sorbet. And yes, the patchouli is there. The dry-down is a very sheer milk chocolate with a sugary patchouli. Most low-fat items are sad substitutes for the real stuff. This one is a little different but is still just as good.

I realize that the notes and even my description sound “heavy”. But, it’s not. It’s sheer, on ice. Keep in mind this isn’t a “new” Angel but a reinterpretation of Angel meant to be worn in warmer climates. I find it very well-done and I’ve rather enjoy wearing it in the heat. The only thing I dislike is the name. Aqua Chic sounds like a terrible Italia Disco group from 1988.

Notes listed include raspberry blossom, green apple sorbet, rosewater, patchouli and vanilla. Launch date 2013.

Give Angel Aqua Chic a try if you are looking for a summer gourmand. Or if you like perfumes like Van Cleef & Arpel Feerie EDT, Viktor & Rolf La Vie En Rose Flowerbomb, Calvin Klein Forbidden Euphoria, Bond No. 9 Bryant Park and/or Mugler Angel. This summer version is more femme than the original because of the fruits and rosewater but I think if you wear Angel try this.

Projection and longevity are average for an EDT. This means that it isn’t as strong as the original EDP. You’ll get about 4-5 hours of wear out of this one.

The 1.7 oz bottle retails for $85 at Sephora and Harrods (UK).

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – A low-fat reinterpretation of the original Angel. A summer gourmand with a”bikini body”. I like it and I think it’s the best summer version to date. Think of it like this. In the winter you want rich desserts like cobblers and chocolate cakes. In the summer you want frozen yogurt and sorbet. Aqua Chic is the sorbet. Sweet, light and refreshing.

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*Disclaimer – Product provided by PR. I am not financially compensated for this review. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Sephora. Diana Dors pic from www.fanpix.net. Post contains affiliate links. Thanks!

Ligne Trapéze is DSH Perfume’s YSL Retrospective Collection for the Denver Art Museum. Ligne Trapéze is inspired by YSL’s “Dior Years” in the 1950′s. This one is meant to represent the epitome of French chic from the era. And it does. It’s a wearable “vintage” style perfume.

Ligne Trapéze opens with a blast of fruity aldehydes. I get a peachy-rose. The heart of this fragrance is a powdery soft violet and clean spring florals such as lily of the valley and daffodils. The dry-down of Ligne Trapeéze is a surprise. It’s still a soapy floral with orris powderiness; however, there’s this interesting addition of castoreum that gives a leather vibe to this fragrance, like leather opera gloves. While wearing Ligne Trapéze we see how she grows up and becomes a woman.

Ligne Trapéze is a flirty fragrance, it will be perfect for spring/early summer.

Notes listed include aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, peach, rosewood, centifolia rose, grandiflorum jasmine, heliotrope, jonquil, lily of the valley, orris, violet, amber, ambrette seed, Australian sandalwood, Brazilian vetiver, castoreum, Siam benzoin and suede. Launch date 2012.

Give Ligne Trapéze a try if you like aldehydic florals. Or perfumes like Rochas Femme EDT (modern), Burberry Weekend for Her, Chanel Cristalle EDP or EDT, Annick Goutal Petite Cherie EDP, Estee Lauder Estee, and/or Dior Diorella.

Ligne Trapéze has average projection and longevity.

Ligne Trapéze comes in a few sizes with the 1 oz EDP retailing for $125 at DSH Perfumes. Samples are also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Aldehydic violet with an animalic base. I quickly used up my sample of this one. I love it. It’s a ladylike leather violet.

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*Disclaimer – Sample provided by DSH perfumes. I am not financially compensated for this review or any others. My opinions are my own. Product pic from DSH Perfumes. Anne St. Marie in Dior by Yves Saint Laurent from www.leblogdesovena.com

Ginger Ciao is my favorite of the YOSH perfumes. I wore it to a Gaugin exhibit and I’ve loved it ever since.

Ginger Ciao opens as night blooming flowers in the middle of the night. Imagine a place that is dark and quiet; the only thing speaking is this fragrance. I get orange blossoms, ylang ylang and this stunning floral humidity. It’s rugged, slightly raw which in my mind makes it passionate. Somewhere in there you pick up on freshly grated ginger. It continues to wear a tropical floral with a grassy green vetiver. The dry-down is a tropical blend of powdery florals, fig leaves and toasted coconut. It’s the fragrance equivalent of Gaugin in the 1890′s.

Notes listed include black coconut, night queen, tiger lily, neroli, ylang ylang, ginger and basil. PERFUMER – Yosh Han

GIve Ginger Ciao a try if you are looking for a complex coconut perfume or if you like tropical florals. Try it if you like perfumes like By Kilian Liaisons Dangereuses, Origins Ginger Essence, Vero Profumo Onda and/or DSH Perfumes Indochine. Ginger Ciao is unisex in my opinion. It’s for anyone looking for something tropical. However, I’ve had guy friends say that they think the florals makes this too feminine for them to wear.

I’m reviewing the EDP, not the perfume oil. The EDP has above average projection and longevity. Sillage, baby.

The 1.7 oz EDP retails for $110 at Luckyscent.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Heady tropical floral blooming at night. It’s my favorite YOSH perfume.

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*Sample provided by YOSH’s PR. I am not financially compensated for this review. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Olfactoria’s Travels. Lenore Ulric pic from www.fanpix.net.

If you read my blog, you’ve probably read that I’m not into “fresh” fragrances. I tend to like things that are completely on the other end of the “fresh” spectrum. But, there’s always an exception to every rule we make for ourselves. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Universalis Forte is a fresh fragrance and I don’t just like it, I love it. I’m so rebellious that I even rebel the stupid rules that I make for myself

Aqua Universalis Forte opens as a fresh floral citrus. The tart citron is very prominent. The lemon is creamy at times, almost like a lemon meringue pie, but sheer. I swear that I pick up on a hint of cumin. It’s a perfect addition to the coastal flowers. From a distance I get sea breeze neroli and lemon blossoms.

Aqua Universalis Forte reminds me of the world’s most luxurious laundry detergent lingering on a white cotton button up worn by a slightly sweaty, sun-kissed person on holiday.

Notes listed include bergamot, Sicilian citron, bouquet of white flowers, Egyptian jasmine, Moroccan roses and light wood. Launch date 2011. PERFUMER – Francis Kukdjian

Give Aqua Universalis Forte a try if you like fresh fragrances. Or if you like perfumes like Malle Outrageous!, Chanel 1932, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue for Her, Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur de Male and/or Elie Saab Le Parfum. Aqua Universalis Forte is unisex and a great choice for warm climates.

Aqua Universalis Forte does have more sillage and does appear more concentrated. I give it above average projection and longevity, especially for something like this.

The 2.4 oz bottle retails for $275 at Parfumerie Nasreen. 

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – The world’s most luxurious laundry detergent turned personal fragrance. That may sound like a snarky jab but it isn’t. This is what the Turkish bath towels of royalty smells like. I don’t live in a hot climate that requires many “clean” scents in my collection. But if I did, you better believe I’d eat lentils for a month just so I could buy a bottle of this.

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*Sample purchased by me. Product pic from Bergdorf Goodman. Audrey Hepburn pic from www.fanpix.net