perfume review

Alchemologie Sol de la Foret is a natural perfumer’s take on the classic fougère. This perfume is overflowing with coumarin and herbs – a harmony of bitter and sweet.

Sol de la Foret opens with a cooling artemisia and lavender. It reminds me of absinthe and caramel. Fougères are on a spectrum, varying from light to dark. Sol de la Foret is a dark as a forest during the new moon. The heart introduces a spicy, clove-like carnation floral with a musky sage, still retaining a balance of bitter and sweet.The dry-down radiates warmth with a dry oakmoss and hay – sweet and musky. Overall, the fragrance has a lush vintage feel and to me, this is absolutely gorgeous.

Notes listed include tonka bean, oakmoss, sweet clover, carnation, lavender, clary sage, neroli and ho wood. Launched in 2014. PERFUMER – Julianne Zaleta

Give Sol de la Foret a try if you love classic fougères. Or if you like perfumes like Aftelier Absinthe (RIP), Ayala Moriel Fougère Classique, LUSH Dirty, CREED Tabarome, DSH Perfumes Pandora and/or Houbigant Fougère Royale. All perfumes are unisex, but Sol de la Foret, being a classic fougère leans more masculine.

Projection is average. Longevity is above average. This is one of the few naturals that lasts and lasts.

Sol de Foret comes in a few sizes with the 1/2 parfum retailing for $100 at Alchemologie.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION - A classic, dark fougère. If you love tonka bean or oakmoss, you should try this. It’s really good and I’m inspired to try more from this line.

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Ça Fleure Bon

*Disclaimer – Sample provided by the brand. I am not financially compensated for my reviews. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Alchemologie. Marlon Brando pic from www.fanpix.net. Doesn’t he look absolutely perfect here? OMG.

Original article: Alchemologie Sol de la Foret Natural Perfume Review

Indult Paris Rêve en Cuir, as the name would imply, is a perfume inspired by leather. But, for a leather scent, it’s not so leather-y. It’s like a “dusting powder leather”.

Reve en Cuir opens with dried herbs, dried lemon peel and spices. There’s a prominent clove, too much for my liking as I feel it anesthetizes my senses. I’ve smelled this sort of spicy-oregano mix before but in amber scents. I don’t know if the top fades rather quickly or if my senses are numbed, but those spices and dried herbs are gone within 10 minutes. And then it’s a soft leather, cedar powder and oakmoss. It’s a leather chypre. If it had more projection, I’d think of it as rather vintage. But, the deal is that this perfume has very little projection making it some sort of “leather chypre skin scent”. The dry-down is a soft moss with vanilla talcum powder.

Many leather perfumes are “aggressive”. Rêve en Cuir is laid-back…and surprisingly soft. It’s a mellow leather.

Notes listed include bergamot, lemon, cardamom, oregano, clove bud, Texan cedar, patchouli, oakmoss, Haitian vetiver and crystallized vanilla. Launched 2008. PERFUMER – Francis Kurkdjian

Give Reve en Cuir a try if you are looking for a soft leather scent. Or if you like Chanel Cuir de Ruisse, Naomi Goodsir Cuir Velours, Caron Tabac Blond parfum and/or Ramon Monegal Mon Cuir. Reve en Cuir is unisex.

Projection and longevity are below average.

The 1.7 oz retails for $200 at Luckyscent. Samples are also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Leather chypre skin scent. It’s nice, just nice (to me). I’m not in awe over it and there are many other soft leather scents that I prefer such as Naomi Goodsir Cuir Velours and Bottega Venetta. And those, in my opinion, smell better and cost less. But, that’s just my “eaupinion”.

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*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Luckyscent. Jean Hagen pic from www.fanpix.net.

Original article: Indult Reve en Cuir EDP Perfume Review

Sweet Anthem has launched two new masculines in their summer The Great Northern Collection, Walden and Cooper.

Walden contains notes of petit grain, white pepper, vintage florals, ambergris and oakmoss.

Walden opens with tart citrus, fruits and florals. It’s a bitter, green floral with peachy aldehydes. Now green florals can go in a few directions like a dewy “spring” floral or “cool”, Walden doesn’t go in this direction. It has depth and underneath there is some “darkness” from earthy mosses.

This is such a weird association and I don’t even know why I’m bothering to mention it, but Walden reminds me of a Polish shampoo that I had back in the day and I can’t remember the name. It was a green bottle and I loved how it smelled. This is what the dry-down of Walden reminds me of – “clean mossy”.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION - A clean mossy floral. Completely unisex. And to me, this is one of those scents that works in any season.

Cooper contains notes of fir needle, coffee, teak and vetiver.

You have no idea how happy it makes me that Sweet Anthem has finally done a Twin Peaks inspired perfume. Cooper needed to happen.

Cooper opens with crisp evergreens and rich coffee beans. And there are warm, sweet woods. It continues to wear as a rather masculine blend of smoky vetiver with warm woods.

Cooper is unisex but I find it to be an excellent masculine, especially for those that like fragrances like Penhaligon’s Endymion and/or Bond No. 9 New Haarlem. I rarely say scents are “sexy” but Cooper is as sexy as the agent.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Sweet, warm and woodsy. Fellows, this is what you need to smell like.

I’ve reviewed the EDP of both of these. The EDPs come in two sizes with prices ranging from $18-$48 at Sweet Anthem. There’s also an oil ($32) and a solid in two sizes ($6.50-$12).

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*Disclaimer – Samples provided by the brand. I am not financially compensated for this review. My opinions are my own. Product pics from Sweet Anthem.

Original article: Sweet Anthem Walden and Cooper Perfume Reviews

Cumming which later became 2nd (Alan) Cumming is one of those perfume collaborations that just makes sense. We have “outcast” perfumer Christopher Brosius teaming up with the eccentric actor and writer Alan Cumming to create an “anti-celebrity” celebrity perfume with profits going to various LGBTQ charities. The final product = CB I HATE CELEBRITY PERFUME.

Cumming is one peat-y perfume. It smells like wet, damp peat/dirt, rubber and garden hose. It’s a hyper-realistic olfactory portrait of a rooftop garden. It then morphs into this spicy, whiskey tobacco with hints of evergreens. It’s worn club chairs, cigars and scotch. Most of the wear (on me) is whiskey and cigars.

Being a CB I Hate Perfume, this perfume is not a perfume. Nothing about it is perfume-y. It’s dirty and weird; yet, oddly wearable. The man that gave us dirt as “perfume” has elaborated on that initial concept with the help of a charming and humorous spokesperson.

Notes listed include bergamot, black pepper, scotch pine, malt whiskey, cigar, heather, douglas fir, rubber, worn leather, highland mud, burnt rubber, peat fir and white truffle. Launched 2010 (and is based on Cumming from 2004). PERFUMER – Christopher Brosius

Give 2nd (Alan) Cumming a try if you like woodsy or boozy scents. Or if you like perfumes like Demeter Whiskey Tobacco (layered with Dirt), Eau d’Italie Bois d’Ombrie, Union Celtic Fire and/or CdG Synthetic Series Skai. All anti-perfumes are unisex. This one does lean more masculine.

Projection and longevity are below average. I get about 4-5 hours of wear. It wears like an EDT.

The 3.4 oz water perfume retails for $100 at CB I Hate Perfume. A perfume oil is also available (I’ve reviewed the water).

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Scotch, cigars and evergreen forests. It’s exactly the sort of sexy perfume you were hoping Alan Cumming would co-create. It’s one of those collaborations that was meant to me.

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*Sample purchased by me. Product pic from CB I Hate Perfume. Alan Cumming pic by Gerry Visco for Interview magazine.

Original article: CB I Hate Perfume 2nd (Alan) Cumming EDP Perfume Review

I’ve always thought of Caron Pour Un Homme de Caron as a “Bauhaus” Guerlain Jicky – modern with a touch of Mies van der Rohe. It’s something that will never go out of style.

This predominately lavender/vanilla scent is a contrast of cool/warm. Pour Un Homme de Caron reminds me of a simplified Guerlain Jicky (or Shalimar, depends on which Guerlain you’re familiar with) in the opening. It’s a sharp lemon with a sweet “coolness” that reminds me of both dried peppermint leaves and fresh lavender buds. The heart of this is a sweeter, dry lavender (no sharpness) with a balsamic vanilla. It dries down to an excellent vanilla musk.

Notes listed include lavender, vanilla and musk. Launched in 1934. PERFUMER – Ernest Daltroff

Give Pour Un Homme de Caron a try if you like lavender perfumes. Or if you like perfumes like Guerlain Jicky, Guerlain Shalimar, Caron Impact Pour Homme, By Kilian A Taste of Heaven and/or Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male. “Homme” may be on the bottle, but this lavender perfume is unisex. It’s one of my favorite “masculines” for feminines.

Longevity and projection are average for an EDT. If you’re used to wearing EDPs, you’ll find projection and longevity below average.

Pour un Homme comes in giant bottles (2.5oz- 25oz) with prices ranging from $70-$230 at Luckyscent. It’s also available for a real bargain at discounters like Fragrancenet.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Lavender and vanilla. Like every timeless aesthetic, this has been copied what feels like a million times – from mainstream 90′s masculine to functional scents in laundry products. This was one of the first lavender perfumes that I’ve ever tried and it’s still my favorite lavender. It’s a “must-try” perfume for any fumehead. I’m not saying you’re going to love it, I’m saying that you need to try it to so you can recognize its many incarnations, imitations and homages.

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*Bottle purchased by me. Product pic from Fragrantica. Bauhaus students from hugohoppmann.com – works with the androgyny of this perfume. Fragrancenet contains an affiliate link. Thanks!

Original article: Caron Pour Un Homme de Caron EDT Perfume Review

Mainstream Monday – Sniffing a Popular Perfume

Who named this perfume? Did they not run this name by a focus group of any kind? “Touch of Pink” just sounds bad. It could go from either something sexual to some sort of illness (“I’m sorry but you have a touch of pink. What? Eye?”). I do find it really weird that in the same year that this perfume was launched, there was also a gay romantic comedy of the same name (a play on Cary Grant’s “That Touch of Mink“). Anyway, the name is odd to me. I get that Lacoste wanted us to know the perfume is “pink”, but couldn’t they come up with a better name?

Touch of Pink is a sweet citrus. It does open with citrus and yes, cilantro aldehydes. This opening is short-lived. It mainly wears as a sweet jasmine fruity-floral which actually reminds me very much of By Kilian Forbidden Games. And then it dries down to a generic base of vanilla, musk and woods.

Touch of Pink is not something that I would want to wear but I can see people wanting to wear it, especially younger people looking for something “soft”. Really I think of Touch of Pink as more of a “budding oriental perfume” than a fruity-floral. Yes, it has fruits and flowers but the vanilla and musk are so prominent.

Notes listed include blood orange, coriander leaf (cilantro), cardamom, peach, jasmine, carrot, coriander, woods, musk and vanilla. Launched in 2004. PERFUMER – Domitille Michalon

Give Touch of Pink a try if you like fruity-florals. Or if you like perfumes like By Kilian Forbidden Games, GAP Near, Paul Smith Portrait for Women and/or Pehaligon’s Malabah. Seriously, if you like those By Kilian Garden of Good and Evil perfumes, you should try this one.

Projection and longevity are below average. But, it is labeled as an EDT and I think it wears like an EDT.

The 3.4 oz retails for $70 at Macy’s. You can find this at discounters like Fragrancenet for under $40.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – An “oriental” perfume in training. It’s a vanilla fruity-floral. It’s not something that I see myself ever wearing. But, it’s not bad for such a perfume. Heck, By Kilian is doing the same thing and charging a lot more for it (but that says more about them than it does this perfume).

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*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from www.sophiasbeauty.com. “That Touch of Pink” poster from dorisday.net. Post contains affiliate links. Thanks!

Original article: Lacoste Touch of Pink EDT Perfume Review

Rebel + Mercury Bouquet is a perfume inspired by flowers, but it reminds me of chestnut honey. It’s a bitter and tannic spicy floral with smoke and leather.

Bouquet opens with lemon varnish and hay. There’s a hint of dried apricots and fresh leaves. The heart introduces some smoke with the florals. Bouquet dries down to a bitter immortelle. Because of the “greenness” in the base, I’m reminded of chestnut honey.

Notes listed include yuzu, rosewood, violet leaf, carnation, moss, immortelle and mushroom.

Give Bouquet a try if you are looking for a “floral leather”. Or if you like perfumes like Aftelier Sepia, Aftelier Wildflowers, JoAnne Bassett Colette, LUSH Smell of Weather Turning and/or Opus Oils Cowboy. I perceive Bouquet as unisex. I do think you have to be a fan of naturals to enjoy this one.

Projection is below average and longevity is above average. Being a natural perfume, it wears closely to the skin. Being a parfum, it lasts.

The 1/3 oz pure parfum retails for $70 at Rebel + Mercury. Samples are also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Bitter, tannic “chestnut honey”. It’s unusual and naturally complex. I’m not a fan of immortelle (it’s my nemesis) and I do pick it up in this. But, if you like immortelle, this is worth trying.

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*Disclaimer – Sample provided by the brand. I am not financially compensated for my reviews. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Rebel + Mercury. Christina Lindberg pic from www.fanpix.net.

Original article: Rebel + Mercury Bouquet Natural Perfume Review

Aether Arts Nude Moderne is a skin-scent musk. It’s rather simple but composing a simple musk is harder than it appears. I would compare Nude Moderne to those “no makeup makeup” looks. They look effortless and bare but in reality it takes at least 8-10 products to achieve such effortlessness! It takes a lot to perfect such a musk.

Nude Moderne is a soft musk. Like I’ve already said, it’s a skin scent. There’s little transition with the fragrance. The opening displays some brightness, almost like an Armenian cucumber. The rest of Nude Moderne is a delicate, super soft, powdery musk reminding me of clean skin in the sun. It has a warmth and a subtle sweetness.

Notes listed include musk accord, sweet nothings, labdanum and understated confidence. Launched 2013. PERFUMER – Amber Jobin

Give Nude Moderne a try if you like soft musk scents. Or if you like perfumes like Skye Botanicals Fuzzy Blue Blanket, Avon Soft Musk, Serge Lutens Clair de Musc and/or Jovan White Musk. Nude Moderne is unisex. I also want to add that the musks are synthetic in this fragrance.

Projection is below average, possibly non-existent and that’s the point – to smell like “you”. Longevity is above average.

The 5.5 ml retails for $49 at Aether Arts’. Samples are also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – The epitome of “skin scent”, a soft musk. It would seem like a “no brainer” but in reality, a good skin-scent/musk isn’t easy to find. This is the perfume equivalent of the “no makeup” makeup look.

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*Disclaimer – Sample provided by Aether Arts. I am not financially compensated for this review. My opinions are my own. Peggy Shannon pic from www.doctormacro.com.

Original article: Aether Arts Nude Moderne Perfume Oil Review

Illuminum Tribal Black Tea comes from the tribe of Earl Grey. This is a citrus black tea. And you know, you’d think that Perfume World would be saturated with those, but the Perfume World really isn’t.

Tribal Black Tea opens with a Earl Grey tea with an addition of lemon and cardamom. I sort of wish I were drinking it instead of wearing it…It wears as a linear Earl Grey and then dries down to a candied orange peel with a sheer amber.

Years ago L’Occitane had Thé Bergamote which I loved. It was a simple bergamot and black tea. Illuminum Tribal Black Tea is the best substitute for this discontinued fragrance. But, it’s hard for me to forget how much more affordable the L’Occitane was in comparison…but other than the price, Tribal Black Tea is enjoyable. I mean if you want something that smells like a perfume trying to smell like Earl Grey, try this.

Notes listed include orange, bergamot, cardamom, black tea blossom, incense and amberwood. Launched 2011.

Give Tribal Black Tea a try if you like the thought of smelling like Earl Grey tea. Or if you like perfumes like L’Occitane Thé Bergamote (RIP), Elizabeth Arden Green Tea, Demeter Earl Grey Tea, Bvlgari Eau Parfumee au Thé Vert Extreme and/or Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl. Tribal Black Tea is unisex. I think it’s best suited for warmer weather/climates.

Projection is average. Longevity is below average. It wears more like an EDT.

The 3.4 oz bottle retails for $150 at Henri Bendel.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Bergamot and black tea = Earl Grey. Simple but very enjoyable.

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Fragrantica – Member reviews.

*Sample provided by the brand. I am not financially compensated for this review. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Fragrantica. Vikki Dougan from www.fanpix.net.

Original article: Illuminum Tribal Black Tea EDP Perfume Review

Mainstream Monday – Sniffing a Popular Perfume

I already wrote a post on why I think the cult classic Aquolina Pink Sugar is a masterpiece. The original is this sweet gourmand that has somehow been appropriate by “alternative” subcultures. I’ve avoided the Pink Sugar flankers because I feared they would “mess” with my positive relationship with Pink Sugar. With a little push from Elisa of The French Exit, I finally opened my Pink Sugar Sensual sample.

Pink Sugar Sensual opens sweet orange oil, tart cassis and pink lemonade. And I get there’s clean, fresh towels, like a clean musk. The white florals are waxy, warm but of course they are candied. This is an Aquolina perfume! The white flower petals are covered in sugar crystals. Cutting through the sweet, waxy florals, there is a subtle camphoric patchouli. Pink Sugar Sensual dries down to sugared woods and vanilla reminding me of the niche perfume Costamor Dulchess.

Pink Sugar Sensual is lighter, fresher and more floral than the original. The only thing that it has in common with the original is that it is sweet, but the sweetness is different here. There’s less fruits, more citrus. It has sugar-coated white flowers. I guess it could be a “summer” version of Pink Sugar.

The use of “Sensual” is a whole lot of weird since I don’t really consider pink lemonade cupcakes as “sensual”. The copy says it “aims at a more mature generation of women who prefer seductive approach“. And the ad showcased a lingerie-clad woman with a bucket of champagne in what looks like a pink-carpeted VIP room. My thought is that five years after the launch of Pink Sugar, Aquolina accepts their “sketchy nightlife” demographic that I mentioned in my original Pink Sugar post (strippers and drag queens). And they ran with it. Or their marketing team is a group of perverts( which is not out of the question with any fashion or beauty brand).

Notes listed include black currant, tangerine, bergamot, orange flower, jasmine, tiare flower, vanilla, black sugar and sandalwood. Launched 2009.

Or if you like perfumes like Costamor Dulcess, B&BW Warm Vanilla Sugar, Britney Spears Fantasy and/or Michel Germaine Sexual Blush. This is a “lighter” version so it could be a Pink Sugar for summer.

Projection and longevity are average for an EDT.

It’s available at discounters like Fragrancenet for under $20.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Pink lemonade cupcakes with white florals. I prefer the genius of the original, but I do like this one. It’s really good for something you can find for under $20 at discounters.

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The Scents of Self

*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Fragrantica. Stella Stevens pic from www.fanpix.net. Post contains an affiliate link. Thanks!

Original article: Aquolina Pink Sugar Sensual EDT Perfume Review

Blooming Dream is a Portland-based natural perfume line created by a garden designer. As you can imagine, the natural beauty of plants have really influenced this line.

The opening of Jasz is tart. It’s like freshly grated ginger and Lemonheads. It’s bright and reminds me of the color yellow. The citrus “brightness” in this persists much longer than I had anticipated (about 30 minutes). It bridges into a greener heart with spices. On a warm day, the jasmine will bloom – reminding me more of a spicy “green” lily than an indolic jasmine. The dry-down is a clean “green” with a sharp, refreshing cedar.

Jasz is a nice alternative to “classic” eau de colognes. It has all of that freshness but actually lasts on the skin for longer than two minutes.

Notes listed include jasmine, cedarwood, lemon verbena, clove and ginger. PERFUMER – Suzinn Weiss

Give Jasz a try if you like fresh, “bright” scents. Or if you like perfumes like Vero Profumo Mito, Annick Goutal Mandragore, Lostmarch Din Dan, L’Occitane Citrus Verbena and/or Guerlain Eau de Fleurs Cedrat. Jasz is unisex.

Projection is average. Longevity is below average but lasts longer than most “citrus heavy” perfumes. I’m really impressed with how “non-greasy” this perfume oil feels!

The 1/3 oz perfume oil roll-on retails for $38 at Blooming Dreams. A smaller size and samples are also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – A bright, “fresh” ginger lemon. If you’re a fan of natural perfumes, this is a line you should check out.

*Disclaimer – Sample provided by Blooming Dream. I am not financially compensated for my review. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Blooming Dream. Rochelle Hudson pic from www.fanpix.net.

Original article: Blooming Dream Jasz EDP Natural Perfume Review

Vetiver is one of those notes, like rose, that I love because of its versatility. It’s one of those notes that can shift and transform. It can be bright and sharp or smoky and dark. Plus, it goes with everything. It can bring out the best (and sometimes the worst) of surrounding notes. For the most part, vetiver is a supporting actor but it also has had some lead roles. I think that Malle Editions de Parfums Vetiver Extraordinaire is one of vetivers best leading roles.

Vetiver Extraordinaire reminds me of burning leaves and the humidity that you feel right before a thunderstorm. It’s earth and ozone. Dry cedar and spice. It opens with dry, spicy pepper and glimmers of bright lemon.The vetiver, like I’ve already said, is a humid and damp vetiver. It dries down with a small amount of smoke and musks. It’s a moody vetiver and that’s why I like it.

I’m from the school of thought with many things in life that if you are going to have a staple, get the best. I apply this to a black t-shirt, a milk frother and yes, even vetiver perfumes. I feel like if you want to own only one straight-forward vetiver, then you better try this one.

Notes listed include bergamot, bitter orange, pink pepper, cloves, vetiver, sandalwood, cedar, oakmoss, myrrh and musk. Launched 2002. PERFUMER – Dominique Ropion

Give Vetiver Extraordinaire a try if you are looking for an exceptional vetiver. Or if you like perfumes like Tom Ford Grey Vetiver, Phaedon Black Vetiver, Roja Dove Vetiver and/or Les Excusifs de Chanel Sycamore. Being a vetiver, many will see this one as masculine. However, I wear it frequently and feel comfortable wearing it.

Projection and longevity are average.

Vetiver Extraordinaire comes in two sizes (1.7 and 3.4 oz) with prices ranging from $190-$280 at Barneys. A travel size is also available.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – A humid vetiver with “atmosphere”. I would really like to own a full-size of this one.

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*Carded sample obtained by me. Product pic from Fragrantica. Victor Mature pic from www.fanpix.net.

Original article: Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire EDP Perfume Review

I have a complicated relationship with L’Artisan Parfumeur Séville à L’aube that I’ll try not to bore you with but I feel it’s worth mentioning. I read “The Perfume Lover” a memoir by Denyse Beaulieu, the woman behind the blog Grain de Musc. I’m not reviewing the book, but the book is about the creation of this perfume. And being a memoir, it’s also about Denyse, her love of perfume and yes, her lovers.

My relationship with Séville à L’aube is complicated by the fact that I read the book before sampling the fragrance. The proto-perfume was described in detail. The inspiration was described in detail. L’Artisan Parfumeur’s website says:

Séville à l’Aube is the passionate story of a romance during the Holy Week, in the most captivating city of Andalusia. Told by a writer to master perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, it awakened his senses and lead to the creation of this stunning soliflore, a sublime orange blossom, alive with contrasts.”

Before sampling, I already had an idea of what I thought this perfume “should” smell like. My expectations weren’t just high, but they were *my* expectations. I had created this perfume in my mind based on the description. When I tried this perfume in the summer of 2012 on a hot day in NYC, I was disappointed. It smelled like an even sweeter version of By Kilian Sweet Redemption. All I got was vanilla orange cream pop with Saturday morning cartoon breakfast cereal. It was cloying and sweet. And I was mad. This was not *my* Séville à L’aube.

In the fall of 2012, a friend of mine urged me to try this perfume again. “But, it’s so you!”, he said. And he nicely made me a generous decant which I tried on a cool, damp October day. During this wear, I picked up on the lavender and acrid incenses with a sweet orange blossom. During this wear, I realized that this is good. It smelled excellent on me. My friend was right.

The story becomes more complicated. During a move, the decant broke (just a few days after I received it). It saturated a Navajo chinle rug. It seems that the most potent/strongest perfumes are always the ones to break or leak! My tiny space was suffocating me with Séville à L’aube. To be fair, it wasn’t this perfume. Any perfume would have bothered me, but this made me not want to sample it again for a very long time.

Well, in 2014, I’ve decided to give this limited edition orange blossom another try.

Séville à L’aube opens with a spicy fruitiness from pink pepper and a lavender that reminds me of a pink variety of lavender. Séville à L’aube is sweet and acrid. And then it wears like a vanilla orange ~~cream pop~~ custard with a sharp lavender. The fragrance has bitter orange leaves that add a greenness but for the most part, this perfume is sweet. The heart is overflowing with indolic white florals paired with a balsamic yet sweet vanilla. The dry-down is a smoky incense powder, mostly benzoin, with a waxy vanilla.

Here’s the deal, I like my orange blossoms sweet. I always think of orange blossom as a “gourmand” note. I tend to prefer them as sweet as they can get. I know that this perfume is too sweet for many people, but I like my orange blossoms (and lavender) with vanilla.

I don’t think Séville à L’aube is “perfect”. The version-in-my-head had more vetiver (channeling Molinard Habanita) and my version had a drier vanilla. But, this isn’t my version; I’m being picky and unreasonable. The final version is a very Duchaufour-ish perfume that is rich and sweet yet acrid. If I didn’t have my personal expectations, I wouldn’t even be mentioning this! This is one of the issues with launching a perfume with such an intimate book.

Notes listed include lavender, pink pepper, lemon tree leaves, orange blossom, jasmine, magnolia, beeswax, incense, Benzoin Siam and Luiseiri lavender. Launch date 2012. PERFUMER – Bertrand Duchaufour

Give Séville à L’aube a try if you like sweet orange blossoms or want a “complex” vanilla. Or if you like perfumes like By Kilian Sweet Redemption, Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur de Male, Serge Lutens Fleurs d’Oranger, Tom Ford Neroli Portofino and/or Mugler Mirror Mirror Collection Dis Moi. I think this one is unisex but I guess because of the sweetness it could lean more feminine.

Projection and longevity are above average. This is a beast. One spray is more than enough.

The 3.4 oz bottle retails for $165 at Beautyhabit.

Victoria’s FInal EauPINION – A really sweet orange blossom and vanilla with sharp lavender. I do think it’s a sexy perfume because I associate white flowers with “sexy”. And vanilla is a note that always gets me compliments, so the two together have to equal something sexy, right?

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Bois de Jasmin

The Candy Perfume Boy

Persolaise

Katie Puckrik Smells

The Non-Blonde

*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Fragrantica. Lili St. Cyr pic from www.fanpix.net. Post contains an affiliate link. Thanks!

Original article: L’Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l’Aube EDP Perfume Review

MIKMOI Itoh reminds me of seaside bonfires.

Itoh opens with astringent cedar and an aquatic breeze of florals. It’s peony and a sharp rosewood. Itoh becomes a slightly “charred”, smoky woodsy scent with salt air. And this is why it reminds me of a seaside bonfire. I know that this may read as intense but Itoh is sheer, airy, delicate.

I have issues with peony perfumes, but I love Itoh. I guess I like my pretty florals with some charred cedar and tobacco. Go figure

Notes listed include white cedar, pink lotus, peony, pemou wood and tobacco leaf. Launched 2013. PERFUMER – Michael Coyle

Give Itoh a try if you are looking for a cedar or a peony with a “twist”. Or if you like perfumes like Nomaterra East Hampton, Stella McCartney Stella, MAC Turquatic, D.S. & Durga Silent Grove and/or Nautica Voyage. I realize that my “if you” list is rather broad, but I can see a wide range of tastes liking this one – from a person that likes pink florals to a person that likes cedar and tobacco scents. It’s woodsy, floral, fresh but smoky. I find Itoh unisex.

Itoh has average projection and longevity.

The 1.7 oz bottle retails for $90 at MIKMOI. A sample set is also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Peonies and a seaside bonfire. I really like it. Yes, I like a peony perfume.

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IndiePerfumes

Rocaille Writes

Ça Fleure Bon

*Sample provided by MIKMOI. I am not financially compensated for my reviews. My opinions are my own. Product pic from MIKMOI. Fire Island 1962 image from www.thecarpetbaggernyc.wordpress.com.

Original article: MIKMOI Itoh EDP Perfume Review

Mainstream Monday – Sniffing a Popular Perfume

When I first saw the bottle of Cartier La Panthère online, I had to talk myself out of buying it unsniffed. This is as close as I’m ever going to get to owning anything from the La Panthère line. I have to say that my expectations for the fragrance itself were rather low, I had a feeling this one is all about the packaging. I mean, it could smell like nothing and people would still buy it for the bottle.

The jewelry collection has used a panther as an icon for ages, describing it as a symbol of both “predatory and elegant”. I don’t really know what people want from this fragrance, I personally had a stereotype of a more mature woman, someone that has a few too many animal prints in her closet (if there is such a thing as too many animal prints…) Honestly, I expected the audience to be someone that wore the original 1980′s version of La Panthère (which I have never tried but I hear it’s nothing like this one).

La Panthère is musks, fruits and nail polish remover – much like the plums in Estee Lauder Cinnabar (but with none of the citrus or spice of Cinnabar). And then the fruits become overripe. And indoles. Everything about La Panthère is overripe. The florals are on the verge of rotting – their white petals rotting to a golden hue in an outline of chestnut brown. The stone fruits are starting to ferment in the warm sun. It reminds me somewhat of Rochas Femme but more modern; yet, still overindulgent bringing to mind popular feminines of the late 70′s and early 80′s. I expected for the florals to be gardenia since that seemed to be the focus in the launch campaign but I can’t shake the indolic jasmine. And whatever it is, I’m loving it. The dry-down is the least exciting part of the perfume. It’s a warm, powdery musk, a teeny bit of patchouli and obligatory modern moss. It’s less exciting but it gets the “chypre” job done. It’s a remix of powerhouse scents and the overall feel is “modern fruity chypre”.

I can only imagine that La Panthere is a polarizing perfume. It’s a throwback powerhouse. People that lived through the designer perfume mushroom clouds of the 80′s are probably over stuff like this. I imagine that the crowd born after the 80′s has no interest in this because it’s not cotton candy or an inoffensive fruitichouli. Yes, I’ve heard “old lady” used with this one way more than I ever want to hear. People absolutely struggle with “abstract perfumes”; they want to pull a part notes, etc. And this one wears as a cloud of “modern fruity chypre” instead of a note list. I think the intended audience is slightly nostalgic for perfume-perfume. The problem of having a totally badass bottle is that you’re going to attract people that won’t necessarily “get” the perfume (assuming there is anything to get).

If you’re wondering what I think of this perfume, I like it much more than I anticipated. I like a big ‘ole perfume that I don’t have to think about, something like Natori Natori or Dior Poison. These are my perfumes for adornment, not mood lifters or intellectual smarty-perfume-blogger perfumes. These are my grown-up, big girl perfumes and I’d love to add this panther bottle to my “period drama” (AKA Joan Collins-ish) perfume collection or my “sassy grown ass woman” perfume collection. This one isn’t getting love from non-perfumistas and the perfumistas find it dull, but I can shamelessly say that I enjoy wearing this. I don’t wear this sort of thing frequently but I do get a craving for these sort of ‘fumes every now and then.

And what the heck should a “predatory and elegant” perfume smell like? These are some of my many questions.

Notes listed include green notes, rhubarb, strawberries, dried fruit, apple, apricot, gardenia, musk and oakmoss. Launched 2014. PERFUMER – Mathilde Laurent

Give La Panthere a try if you like big 80′s feminines. Or perfumes like Dior Poison, Serge Lutens Une Voix Noire, Diane von Furstenberg Diane EDP, Givenchy Amarige, Natori Natori and/or Tom Ford Private Blend Plum Japonais. You better like perfume-perfumes if you’re trying this one because you’re going to smell like perfume-perfume if you wear this.

Projection and longevity are average to above average. And of course I can’t finish this review without mentioning the bottle one more time. It’s gorgeous. It fits the Cartier line perfectly.

La Panthere is available in 2 sizes (1 oz and 1.6 oz) with prices ranging from $72-$103 at Sephora and Harrods (UK).

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – “Rotting fruits and white florals with a powder fresh musk” modern chypre. Considering that this is a mainstream designer perfume launched in 2014, I think it’s really good (but my expectations were really low, I already admitted that). If you want a perfume-perfume in a pretty bottle, try this.

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Escentual - Written by Thomas of Candy Perfume Boy

*Disclaimer – Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Fragrantica. Barbier for Cartier Panthere 1914 print from worthpoint.co.uk. Post contains affiliate links. Thanks!

Original article: Cartier La Panthere EDP Perfume Review

Aftelier Shiso is a perfume that actually captures the complexities of many Asian “green” flavors. Wearing Shiso reminds me of all of the good and bad things that I’ve done with things that I’ve bought at Asian markets. It reminds me of smelling bunches of herbs labeled in languages that I can’t read, imagining what I’d do with them when I got home. I once made a shiso simple syrup for cocktails, it was terrible. My other experiments were much more pleasant and are now staples in the house. I think I could pour kewda on anything and eat it.

Shiso opens as spicy and green, reminding me exactly of rau ram/Vietnamese mint. So, it’s aldehydic, terpinic and hot like cinnamon. I also get lemon and pine-like terpenes. The heart is hot spices like cinnamon and clove with fruity greens. The heart emphasizes the floral “greenness” of the geranium and kewda. It’s like a fruity, green bouquet. There’s also an almost chalky, basic-like element to Shiso. The perfume always surprises me when it dries down to a rich and dirty oud with patchouli.

The way I’m with fragrance is the way that David is with food. “Flavors” is one of his hobbies. We’ve spent so many hours in so many markets. When he smelled Shiso, he immediately said, without knowing the name or inspiration, “This smells like all of the best aspects of a Vietnamese market” which he’s always described as “mothball cilantro”. And since Vietnamese food is basically perfume that you eat, so aromatic and complex, this is a compliment for Shiso. Shiso, the herb, is more often associated with Japanese and sometimes Korean cuisine, but Shiso the perfume reminds me more of Southeast Asian flavors.

Notes listed include antique clove, green pepper, perilla, kewda, geranium, agarwood (oud), sandalwood and patchouli. PERFUMER – Mandy Aftel

Try Shiso if you want something that smells like shiso or if you are looking for an “unusual” green fragrance. Or if you like perfumes like The Different Company De Bachmakov, CdG Series 1 Shiso, Di Sir Diana and/or Apothia Pearl. Shiso is unisex. I think it’s a great choice for warmer weather wear.

Projection is below average and longevity is above average because of the woodsy base. I tried the parfum and it does wear closer to the skin.

The 1/4 oz parfum retails for $170 at Aftelier. Samples and other sizes are also available.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – “Hot mint”. This perfume really does capture the natural complexities of perilla/shiso and herbs like rau ram. This is one of my favorites from Aftelier, following Wild Roses.

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Fragrantica – Member reviews

*Disclaimer – Sample provided by the brand. I am not financially compensated for this review. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Aftelier. Vietnamese market pic from hanaoitravel.com.

Original article: Aftelier Shiso EDP Natural Perfume Review

Daniella 4D is a new perfume by Parfums by Daniella. After reading the name, Daniella Pavicic, in a press release, it hit me that this Daniella perfume is the perfume of dance musician, Daniella. It’s always a pleasure to see your little “niche interests” collide like this. After her signature perfume was discontinued, Daniella, with her entrepreneur spirit, had a new signature created.

4D opens with chocolate covered almonds and toasted coconut. 4D has a “lift” from a subtle cucumber and a tart cassis. The heart is a sweet patchouli and vetiver with a dewy gardenia in the background. 4D dries down to a soft, creamy sandalwood with white chocolate.

I see 4D as a versatile perfume oil. It could work on a tropical beach because of the gardenia and coconut. I also see it working in the cold winter months because of the patchouli and gourmand notes.

Notes listed include cucumber, bitter chocolate, almond blossom, black currant, coconut, sandalwood and patchouli. Launched 2014.

Give 4D a try if you like nouveau-boho perfume oils or coconut. Or if you like perfumes like Tom Ford Black Orchid, Ralph Lauren Ralph Hot, Kai, Mugler Angel, Shay & Blue Almond Cucumber, YOSH Omniscent and/or Sage Onyx.

The packaging is simple, art deco-ish and I like that. The roll-on is great for travel (it’s a slim roll-on). The name, I can barely say it without saying it like Eazy-E “Sippin on a 4-D“. You may not have this issue

Projection and longevity are average.

The .35 oz perfume oil retails for $65 at Daniella Parfums. There’s also a candle in this scent (which I’m really interested in).

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Nouveau-boho coconut floral. I’m such a sucker for perfume oils like this. And I see myself wearing this one a lot during this summer.

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Ça Fleure Bon

The Scented Salamander – More info on the scent.

*Disclaimer – Product provided by PR. I am not financially compensated for my review. My opinions are my own. Product pic is mine. Lilyan Tashman pic from www.fanpix.net.

Original article: Daniella Parfums 4D Perfume Oil Review

It’s very rare for me to encounter a citrus perfume that impresses me. I’m just not a “citrus perfume person”. I can see why people like them, but I’m not drawn to them. Ramon Mongal Entre Naranjos is one of those few citrus perfumes that impresses me.

Entre Naranjos opens as a bright orange with a hint of black licorice. It’s a bitter, green citrus with vibrancy. The heart is a green petitgarin and “candied” orange blossoms over an astringent cedar – think of this heart as the orange tree. There’s leaves, bark and blossoms. The dry-down is fresh musks and woods. This dry-down isn’t that impressive but it does give the citrus and delicate florals something to clutch.

So why do I like Entre Naranjos? I like it because it is a citrus with some weight. It’s not vapid. And I also like the bitter sweetness in it.

Notes listed include Tunisian orange flower, orange, petitgrain, neroli, amber and Indonesian patchouli. Launch date 2010.

Give Entre Naranjos a try if you are looking for a really good orange fragrance. Or if you like perfumes like Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, Odin 02 Owari, Cartier Eau de Cartier Essence d’Orange and/or Pacifica Tuscan Blood Orange solid perfume. It’s unisex. And I think it’s a good choice for “every day” wear.

For a citrus, Entre Naranjos has above average projection and longevity. It really sticks on my skin and I get 7+ hours…for a citrus!

The 1.7 oz bottle retails for $185 at Beautyhabit.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Long-wearing citrus/orange. I like it but I rarely wear citrus perfumes. If you love citrus, this may be a worthwhile “investment” for you.

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Fragrantica - Member reviews

Basenotes – Member reviews

*Sample provided by Ramon Monegal. I am not financially compensated for this review. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Fragrantica. Beach editorial pic is from a 1954 Vogue. Post contains an affiliate link. Thanks!

Original article: Ramon Monegal Entre Naranjos EDP Perfume Review

The perfume market is filled with “beach” perfumes because people love beaches! The world is filled with diverse coastlines but the perfume market likes to focus on “tropical beaches” using notes of manoï or coconut. And why not? Tropical beaches are paradise! I like “beach” scents but I admit that I get bored with them. I only need one in my collection…or at least that was what I thought until I tried Olivine Amongst the Waves.

It’s not a secret that I’m a fan of Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess. It’s a warm floral with coconut. It’s been my go-to tropical beach fragrance for years (ever since it was Azuree Soleil under Tom Ford’s direction) . However, I may have a new beachy go-to.

This Hawaiian-inspired perfume is a heady white floral with coconut. It reminds me very much of the heart of Tom Ford Private Blend Shanghai Lily but with an addition of coconut tanning oil. This perfume keeps from being too sweet with an addition of salty “warm skin” musks.

It’s has that saltiness and breeze of Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess but it has much more presence, especially with those Asiatic lilies. The dry-down blows my little mind in that it smells like hair dried out from sea salt and sun. It’s musky woods bleached by the elements.

Notes listed include ocean salt, black coconut, stargazer lily, waterlily, tiger lily, musk, tonka bean and Arabian sandalwood. PERFUMER – Julie Wray

Try Amongst the Waves if you like coconut florals. Or if you like perfumes like Sarah Horowitz Parfums Perfect Coconut Milk, HEELEY Coccobello, YOSH Ginger Ciao, Sage Coral, Tom Ford Private Blend Shanghai Lily and/or Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess. If you are looking for a creamy/tropical “skin scent”, you need to try this one.

I’ve sampled the oil. An EDP is also available. The oil has average projection and longevity. It hangs around much longer than Bronze Goddess. The EDP comes in a prettier bottle

The 5ml perfume oil retails for $48 and the 1.7 oz EDP retails for $80 at Beautyhabit. A sampler set is also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Heady white florals and coconut “beach scent”. I’m not always in the mood for something like this but when I am, I want to wear something just like this! A mix of product, atmosphere and warm skin.

This one was in my Summer 2014 Perfume Picks.

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The Unseen Censer

Allure

Seattle Mag

*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Beautyhabit. Photograph by Bruno Bernard from Huffington Post. Post contains an affiliate link. Thanks!

Original article: Olivine Amongst the Waves Perfume Oil Review

When I think of perfumes inspired by Hawaii, I think about stuff that smells like coconut and gardenias. This is what the perfume industry keeps giving us. After reading the notes of Phoenix Botanicals Ka Pueo, I still expected a “tropical white floral”. I was surprised to try it and see that it is a smoky white floral. Yeah, like a “lava white floral”.

Ka Pueo opens with sharp woods and a cool, minty jasmine. On my skin, the creamy florals start to stand out once this perfume warms up on skin. It’s like a tropical flower pudding with pine sap. The dry-down is more of the smoky, sharp woods.

Ka Pueo is really sharp and smoky on my skin. It’s the palo santo. Now this is going to sound bad but it isn’t meant to sound bad. I really think Ka Pueo could keep pesky summer bugs away. It’s all that palo santo! Palo Santo has traditionally been used for so many things and one of those is an insect repellent. Perhaps this one would be a good outdoors fragrance for summer? I haven’t tested my little theory but I don’t think it’s a far-fetched idea.

Notes listed include ginger lily, sustainable palo santo, pinyon, jasmine accord, tonka bean, frankincense, vetiver, smoke and woods. Launched 2013. PERFUMER – Irina Adams

Give Ka Pueo a try if you like smoky scents or like the idea of a “tropical woods” fragrance. Or if you like perfumes like OLO Palo Santo, Sweet Anthem Elliott, Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods and/or Le Labo Patchouli 21. Ka Pueo is unisex.

Projection and longevity are average for a natural perfume.

Ka Pueo comes in a few sizes. The 4 ml retails for $40 at Phoenix Botanicals. Samples are also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – “Lava white floral”. It’s creamy, minty and smoky. And that’s weird. But, weird in a good way.

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Ça Fleure Bon

*Disclaimer – Sample provided by Phoenix Botanicals. I am not financially compensated for my reviews. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Phoenix Botanicals. Beverly Johnson circa 1975 from Conde Naste.

Original article: Phoenix Botanicals Ka Pueo Natural Perfume Review