Hermes Twilly d’Hermes Perfume Review

Perfume Shrine

*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Notino. Marisa Berenson by Bert Stern circa 1965 pic from annaluks.blogspot.com. Post contains an affiliate link. Thanks!

Original article: Hermes Twilly d’Hermes Perfume Review

But, what if I like my mimosas conceited?

Vilhelm Modest Mimosa opens with bright blossoms. It’s neroli and violet. It’s a green, tangy citrus blossom. Because it’s a tangy, lime-like floral, it manages to remind me of linden blossoms. There’s a green grassiness that just sort of completes the spring fantasy of this perfume. Don’t get me wrong, Modest Mimosa is a mimosa soliflore. But, in comparison to many others, it’s greener and brighter. This scent eventually fades into a white musk with powdery (but “fresh”) violets. The mimosa becomes buttery, almost like an iris.

It’s spring and I’m in the mood to wear things like Modest Mimosa. You know, the sort of things that are green, fresh and pretty. I basically want to smell like being outside without suffering from seasonal allergies.

Notes listed include neroli, carrot, mimosa, violet, musk and leather. Launched in 2016. PERFUMER – Jerome Epinette

Give Modest Mimosa a try if you like mimosa perfumes. Or perfumes like Annick Goutal Le Mimosa, Lili Bermuda Pink, Von Euserdorff New York Classic Mimosa, House of Matriarch Trillium, April Aromatic Unter den Linden and/or Provence Sante Tilleul. I think if you like things from Annick Goutal or Jo Malone London, I could see liking the style of this perfume.

Projection and longevity are average.

The 3.4 oz retails for $245 at Aedes. Samples are also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Crisp, green mimosa. It’s beautiful and I think it may be my favorite from the brand. However, it’s pricey and I don’t see myself buying it. I have cheaper stuff that scratches this itch. BUT, I think it’s really pretty and something to try if you like mimosa.

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Persolaise

*Sample purchased by me. Product pic from the brand. Naomi Campbell circa 1988 from miss-vanilla.tumblr.com.

Original article: Vilhelm Modest Mimosa Perfume Review

Mainstream Monday – Sniffing a Popular Perfume

L’Occitane Terre de Lumière is a perfume inspired by the Golden Hour. It’s meant to represent warmth, radiance and a diffused glow. I’m going to say that L’Occitane achieved this with Terre de Lumiere. It’s a warm fragrance that reminds me of lazy summer “Golden Hours”.

Terre de Lumiere is like a “luminous gourmand”. It opens with bright bergamot that ventures slightly into Earl Grey tea territory. I also pick up something that is like dried apricots. There’s an interesting mix of aromatic lavender and syrupy white florals. The florals in this are discreet and dipped in honey. It starts to wear like a black tea with dried lavender buds and a spoonful of honey. The scent is warm and sweet but not too sweet. I think its radiance and the addition of an aromatic lavender keep it from being overly gourmand. The dry-down keeps with the theme of warmth. It’s like a balsamic vanilla-amber with a powdery almond and a lot of musk. I also pick up on something that is like patchouli, adding a woodsiness to the fragrance.

What I like about Terre de Lumiere is that it’s light enough for summer wear, but it’s also a fragrance with depth that can be worn in cooler weather. I also like that is sweet but it’s balanced by aromatic notes. Overall, it’s a lovely perfume that fits perfectly with the “South of France” vibe of the entire L’Occitane brand.

Notes listed include honey, almond, lavender and musk. Launched in 2017. PERFUMERS – Calice Becker, Shyamala Maisondieu and Nadege Lagerlantezac¹

Give Terre de Lumiere a try if you like radiant, warm fragrances or are looking for a something honeyed. Or if you like perfumes like Guerlain Mon Guerlain/Guerlain Mon Exclusif, Burberry Brit, Sarah Jessica Parker Stash Unspoken, Roberto Cavalli Just Cavalli for Her and/or Armani Sensi for Her.

Projection and longevity are average.

Terre de Lumiere comes in a few sizes with the 1.7 oz retailing for $79 at L’Occitane and on Amazon.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Honey, lavender and sunshine. I haven’t tried many L’Occitane perfumes despite loving their bath/body line. But, every L’Occitane perfume that I’ve tried so far has been really enjoyable. They’re crowd-pleasers that aren’t dull.

¹I have a saying of “perfumers of three, leave them be” because so many of those perfumes suffer from “too many cooks in the kitchen” syndrome. But, this one was a pleasant surprise.

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I Scent You a Day

The Happy Sloths

WTF is Fashion

*Product purchased by me. Product pic from the brand. Benedetta Barzini in Pucci circa 1968 pic by Henry Clarke from pleasurephoto.wordpress.com. She’s one of my favorite supermodels. Amazon is an affiliate link.

Original article: L’Occitane Terre de Lumiere Perfume Review

I meet a lot of people that were young adults in the 1980’s that absolutely can not stand huge 80’s perfumes like Dior Poison or Giorgio Beverly Hills. I totally understand. They spent a decade+ gagging on syrupy plums and powdery tuberoses. Those huge fragrances were in every office, school, bus stop, restaurant, etc. Their reaction to these are like my reaction to many aquatic florals. For years, I could not stand aquatics like Calvin Klein Escape or Issey Miyake L’Eau D’Issey or a fruity floral like Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl. These were the perfumes that I gagged on. Teenagers basically bathed in them. You couldn’t go to a mall or a restaurant without gagging on some aggressively clean watermelon juice. It took me decades to recover from my 90’s aquatic floral trauma. These days, I actually love a lot of the Nouveau-Aquatics and clean, green florals. I truly believe that absence really does make the heart grow fonder.

Eau de Source is an aquatic floral. It opens with a sharp green mint and cold geranium leaf. Both are very garden-like. It’s a wave of freshness that by the time it hits the shore,it is a huge lily-of-the-valley. It’s like a heady, green jasmine with waterlilies. There’s an aquatic accord that is almost like fresh watermelon. As it dries down, it’s a white musk and chlorine pool. The heady, aquatic florals are always present.

When I talk about Eau de Source, I know it sounds like something like L’Eau D’Issey. And it absolutely is. It’s a cool aquatic floral with a lot of clean musk. It’s one of those “flowers meets water” fragrances. The biggest difference to me is that this one smells like an “upgrade”. It’s more restrained and doesn’t give me a headache like L’Eau D’Issey always did. When the weather gets hot and humid, I like something that smells clean and soapy. It’s taken me decades to “get” the appeal, but now I do.¹

Notes listed include mint, grapefruit, geranium, cyclamen, rose, lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, cedar and white musk. Launched in 2015. PERFUMER – Sophie Chabaud

Give Eau de Source a try if you like cool florals. Or perfumes like Issey Miyake L’eau d’Issey, Calvin Klein Escape, Yves Rocher Ming Shu, Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers, Yardley Lily of the Valley, Raw Spirit Mystic Pearl and/or Penhaligon’s Lily of the Valley. I know I’ve compared it to some designer stuff, but it’s more like “an upgrade” from those.

This is an EDT and wears like one. Projection and longevity are below average in comparison to an EDP.

The 3.4 oz retails for $105 at Osswald. This niche perfume is actually cheaper than the designer Issey Miyake.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Minty, soapy aquatic floral. Is it ground-breaking? No. But, I think it smells good and is a nice clean/fresh perfume for warm weather.

¹This may also have to do with yesterday was a warmer day and if you ride mass transit or walk around the city, omg, so much B.O. I don’t know if it was time or living in the city that made me like squeaky clean fragrances.

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Fragrantica – Serguey’s review

*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Fragrantica. Marguerite Chapman pic from fanpix.net.

Original article: Chabaud Eau de Source Perfume Review

There are two types of perfumes that I get asked about frequently that apparently people really, really want to smell like. One of those is marijuana. People apparently really want to smell like reefer. The other one is “makeup”. There’s entire genre of lipstick/makeup perfumes for a reason. People want to smell like it for whatever reason. As someone that wears makeup every single day, I find myself also wanting to smell like makeup…and this makes very little sense because don’t I already smell like makeup? But, here’s the deal for me. I love powdery fragrances, violets and roses, so of course, I’d like perfumes that smell like makeup. Marijuana…not so much.

Anatole Lebretron is a new-to-me brand until a couple of my “perfume pals” kept bringing up how much I’d love Incarnata. And they were absolutely right. I love Incarnata.

Incarnata opens as waxy, violet lipstick and a powder puff saturated in loose face powder. Some times when I wear it, I pick up on a waxy iris and cold cream. Other times it’s the violet and face powder, but every time, it’s waxy. It smells like a bullet of lipstick – waxy, oily, creamy and floral. Underneath all of this is the bottom of a leather handbag. It’s a worn-out suede, probably stained from blotting powder and a rogue lipstick tube. As the fragrance wears, it’s like a birch tar leather and a musky rose scented face powder. Eventually it dries down to a powdery, leathery amber and cold cream.

In contrasts to other makeup/lipstick perfumes, Incarnata is a little more experienced. What does that mean? It’s not some frou-frou or girly-girl violet-rose. It’s makeup for grown-ass ladies that don’t have time for games. It’s basically a makeup perfume that has some stories to tell and if it were giving you advice, you should listen. The leather is almost industrial (like birch tar), there’s that oily/beeswax cold cream and all of this is paired with old school French makeup. It just needs some cigarettes and a throaty voice to complete the whole aesthetic.

Notes listed include raspberry, violet, rhodendron, orris, myrrh, powdery notes, amber, suede, benzoin and vanilla. Launched in 2015. PERFUMER – Anatole Lebreton

Give Incarnata a try if you like powdery perfumes or makeup/functional fragrance perfumes. Or perfumes like Malle Lipstick Rose, Chanel Misia, Mancera Black Prestigium, Montale Orchid Powder, Guerlain Insolence, Guerlain French Kiss, Histories de Parfums 1889 Moulin Rouge and/or Narciso Rodriguez Narciso.

Projection is average. Longevity is above average.

I’m in the process of updating my 2018 “to-buy” list. Incarnata is on it.

The 1.7 oz retails for $110 at Luckyscent. Samples are also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Waxy lipstick, face powder and cold cream. It’s one of those vintage vanity fantasy perfumes that wants to smell like a show girl’s dressing room or grandma’s purse. There’s an odd crossover between the two.

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Scenthurdle

Fragrantica – Member reviews

*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Luckyscent. Bette Davis circa 1964 on “Dead Ringer” set pic from www.lipstickandcurls.net.

Original article: Anatole Lebreton Incarnata Perfume Review

Mainstream Monday – Sniffing a Popular Perfume

Being a perfume lover comes with its (un)fair share of heartbreaks. When you take up this “hobby”, you risk falling in love with a perfume that will be discontinued without an explanation or reformulated without an announcement. You also risk falling for something that costs as much as a monthly lease payment on a luxury car. Who knew that 50 ml of some invisible stuff diluted in alcohol could be so complicated? Today, I’m discussing a few of the risks of being a perfume lover. Basically, I like Jo Malone London Nectarine Blossom & Honey because it reminds me of a cheap perfume that I can no longer buy.

When I first started EauMG (10 years ago!), I was into solid perfumes because I could sneak them into my scent-free work environment. I was also paying off student loans and working my first “professional” job…I was broke and solids were cheaper. I ended up buying and wearing a lot of solid perfumes from a now discontinued French brand, Crazylibellue & The Poppies. These perfumes weren’t exceptional, but they were really satisfying for their price ($15-ish). Most of them were simple, something that I could easily replace if I wanted to (i.e. an incense-centric or white musk perfume); however, there was one that I absolutely loved and was also available as a cologne spray, 26 Juin Île d’Yeu. This was an aldehydic fruity floral that really did remind me of late June. It also reminds me of a pleasant time in my life, one of those times where I look back and everything was “right”. Anyway, the perfume doesn’t exist anymore and I’ve been looking for a replacement. Of course, that replacement smells and wears the same and costs much more. This is the risks we Fumeheads take.

Nectarine Blossom & Honey opens as blackcurrant and crushed greens with a sweet apricot. It starts to wear like a summer breeze over ripe stone fruit trees. It’s a mix of warm ozone, peaches, plums and a bramble of berries. There’s a greenness throughout the fragrance from vetiver, “crushed leaves” and a green neroli. Sometimes I pick up on a rose, but I often wonder if the green-peach is playing tricks on me. Being a short-lived cologne, there’s not really a dry-down to Nectarine Blossom & Honey. It is what it is, until it isn’t. It’s a aldehydic green, (unripe) fruity fragrance that evaporates into nothing.

Nectarine Blossom & Honey smells synthetic and isn’t as “good” as the cheaper one I’m trying to replace. However, it’ll do. It reminds me of mid-summer and I can wear it in the sticky, hot summer without feeling overwhelmed.

Notes listed include green notes, blackcurrant, petitgrain, nectarine, black locust, vetiver, peach and plum. Launched in 2005.

Give Nectarine Blossom & Honey a try if you like fruity-florals or peach-centric perfumes. Or perfumes like CREED Spring Flower, Burberry Summer for Her, Annick Goutal Petite Cherie, Rosie Jane Leila Lou and/orBurberry Weekend for Her. And that Crazylibellule & The Poppies that I went into too much detail with in this review.

Like so many of the Jo Malone London fragrances, projection and longevity are below average. But, they’re colognes, so it’s average, really.

Nectarine Blossom & Honey comes in a few sizes with the 3.4 oz retailing for $135 at Nordstrom and Sephora. Smaller sizes and a bath/body products are also available.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – A mid-summer fruity-floral: peaches, stones fruits and berries. Isn’t it fun to try to find a replacement for something cheap only to find a decent replacement cost like 5x more?

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*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Nordstrom. Madge Bellamy pic from fanpix.net. Post contains affiliate links. Thanks!

Original article: Jo Malone London Nectarine Blossom & Honey Perfume Review

A name can really make or break a perfume. Is that fair? Absolutely not. But, it’s a first impression for most of us that sniff perfume. I’ve always liked Tom Ford Private Blend Rive d’Ambre despite rarely hearing anything about the perfume. The problem is its name. It’s “Rive d’Ambre”. This suggests an amber. It’s not. Also, this is in the “Atelier d’Orient” collection which is going to suggest oriental-style perfumes. Once again, Rive d’Ambre is not a classic oriental perfume. So let’s just move on without thinking about the name or the collection.

Rive d’Ambre opens as a fresh, zesty citrus with cardamom. The bergamot, lemon and oranges are so realistic! It wears like a citrus grove with fruits, leaves and tree bark. It’s green, grassy and herbal. There’s a breezy neroli and a glass of lemon-aid with a sprig of mint. Fragrances like this are usually fleeting. So, what does a perfumer do about it? They pair it with a modern amber (think something diffused and breezy like ambroxan). This modern, musky-amber wears with a peppery Earl Grey tea. After an hour-or-so of wear, Rive d’Ambre starts to wear like a cognac with bitter oranges and oak. It’s not heavy and keeps with the sheerness of the fragrance, but it adds an unexpected depth. It eventually just fades away into nothing.

There are many similarities between this and something like the brand’s Neroli Portofino. In my opinion, Rive d’Ambre is superior. It holds my interest for longer. I appreciate the zesty, peppery bergamot and the addition of cognac was a pleasant surprise. My complaint with the fragrance is that I’m lucky to get 3 hours of wear from it.

Notes listed include citruses, amber, bergamot, lemon, bitter orange, tarragon, mint, cardamom, cognac and tolu balsam. Launched in 2013. PERFUMER – Olivier Gillotin

Give Rive d’Ambre a try if you like fresh, citrus fragrances. Or perfumes like Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, Hermès Eau de Mandarine, Jo Malone London Tobacco & Mandarin, The Different Company Tokyo Bloom, Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lemon Fresca and/or Diptyque L’Eau de Neroli.

Projection and longevity is below average for an EDP but above average in comparison to other citrus-centric perfumes. I just do not like paying a Private Blend price for something that has somewhere better to be.

The 1.7 oz retails for $230 at Nordstrom.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Bergamot and cognac – an “updated” eau de cologne. I enjoy wearing these sort of fresh fragrances, especially in the summer. However, I don’t see myself spending the money for something like this. I’ll stick to my boring Hermès instead.

Rumor has it that this perfume is being discontinued along with some others from Tom Ford. I don’t know if this is a fact but it wouldn’t surprise me. Tom Ford Private Blends has a tendency to discontinue their best and keep their dullest. I’ve learned my lesson with Tom Ford. If you love it, go ahead and buy it. They’ll discontinue a best-seller. Estee Lauder (their parent company) just doesn’t care. They do whatever they feel like.

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Kafkaesque

Notable Scents

*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Sephora UAE. Grace Bol 2017 from Luncheon Magazine Issue No. 3. Post contains an affiliate link. Thanks!

Original article: Tom Ford Rive d’Ambre Perfume Review

Despite being around for many years, the Moscow Mule has gained popularity over the past decade. Initially created as something to sell Smirnoff vodka and gingerale, its “ease of drinking” helped it became what feels less like a fad and more like a staple. It’s a refreshing cocktail with ginger, vodka and lime. Plus, the copper mug doesn’t hinder its popularity. It’s stylish. It’s alcohol in a mug!

When Juliette Has a Gun announced that they were releasing a perfume inspired by this popular drink, Moscow Mule, I was very interested. It seems like the sort of cocktail that would easily translate into a perfume.

The opening of Moscow Mule is like ice and lime wedges. It’s a cool citrus. The ginger isn’t fresh ginger, but like that in an effervescent ginger ale. From the beginning to the end, there’s a dry, sharp cedar. The heart is lime juice and a radiant cedar that reminds me of something like Iso E Super® or gamma isomers, aromachemicals that remind me of radiance, lemons and cedar gilded in bronze…it’s something you’ve smelled in many perfumes before. Eventually that is what Moscow Mules becomes. It’s like dry, sharp woods on ice. It’s a bit diffused. Sometimes I smell the citrus woods, other times I don’t.

In summary, Moscow Mule is a fresh, cool fragrance that I would recommend for summer. It’s not as “feminine” as the rest of the line and is unisex (in my opinion). I see this being the sort of fragrance that would appeal to those that adore perfumes from the Escentric Molecules line or those other “streamline” modern perfumes. Like the drink, this fragrance is simplistic but that doesn’t mean that it isn’t enjoyable. However, this won’t be enjoyable if you dislike synthetic, dry woods! It’s like ordering a Moscow Mule if you don’t like ginger beer. Just don’t do it, ok. Luckily, I like ginger beer AND woods.

Notes listed include bergamot, ginger and Norlimbanol®¹. Launched in 2018. PERFUMER – Romano Ricci

Give Moscow Mule a try if you like woodsy citrus “colognes”. Or perfumes like Escentric Molecules Molecule 01, Byredo Super Cedar, Andrea Maack Dual, Dior Dior Home Cologne (limited edition), Malin + Goetz Bergamot and/or Chanel Allure Homme Sport.

Projection and longevity are average. I actually think I may be anosmic to some of this. I suspect there are musks that I’m not really picking up on.

Moscow Mule comes in a few sizes with the 1.7 oz retailing for $100 at Sephora.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Cedar, limes and ice. It’s a cool citrus with woods (heavy on the synth woods). I see it being something refreshing for summer.

¹This is an aromachemical by Firmenich that has an extremely dry, woodsy character. Once you smell it, you know you’ve smelled it before. To me, it’s somewhere between cedar sawdust and patchouli.

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*Disclaimer – Product provided by the brand. I am not financially compensated for my reviews. My opinions are my own. Product pic is mine. Colleen Farrington is from an October 1957 Playboy (she was actress Diane Lane’s mom). Post contains an affiliate link. Thanks!

Original article: Juliette Has a Gun Moscow Mule Perfume Review

It’s June. Even though it’s oddly mild for this time of the year, I’m having my yearly hankering for citrus-centric colognes. Last year I asked for some suggestions within this category; there were many great ones. But, apparently I can’t get enough of insubstantial citrus waters. I still want more. When it comes to aromatic citruses, I think Italians do a great job. The Carthusia line has many wonderful “colognes”and today I’m talking about Corallium.

Corallium opens with a sweet citrus. On my skin, it’s mostly a juicy orange. It then becomes a refreshing aromatic citrus. The oranges are paired with dry Mediterranean herbs. There’s an effect that feels like salty sea air. It’s cool but not overly aquatic. It’s more like a coolness, like eucalyptus. It’s not listed, but I pick up on a lot of fresh basil (a note I love in perfumery). Another thing I didn’t expect in this fragrance is a mineral quality that reminds me of salty, damp stones. The dry-down is a soft warm musk. It’s like the damp stones turn into a flaxen sandy beach.

So, my only real issue with Carthusia fragrances is that they do not last at all on my skin. I adore them but they last 2 hours if I’m lucky. Longevity isn’t a deal breaker (or deal maker) for me. If I like something, I like it. But, I do feel like I have to bathe in Carthusia fragrances and that would become expensive. This one does last longer (4-5 hours) but wears close to the skin. I’m happy about that.

Notes listed include bergamot, tangerine, myrrh, bay leaves, sage, musk and sedum.

GIve Corallium a try if you like aromatic citrus perfumes. Or perfumes like Malle Cologne Bigarade, Hermès Terre d’Hermès, Atelier Cologne Cedrat Enivrant, Caron Eaux de Caron and/or Biotherm Eau d’Energie. It’s a fresh scent for summer.

It’s like a cologne so projection and longevity are below average. But, wears longer than other Carthusia perfumes.

Corallium comes in a few sizes with the 1.7 oz retailing for $80 at Luckyscent. Samples are also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Oranges and Mediterranean herbs. I like it. It’s sea-like without being obviously aquatic.

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Fragrantica – Member reviews

*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Luckyscent. Clara Bow from goldenagedames.wordpress.com.

Original article: Carthusia Corallium Perfume Review

Bartenders in New York City area secretly fragrance connoisseurs.

Last summer I was at a swanky bar at a weird time. Somehow I had gotten the times incorrect for an early dinner and had time to kill. I was at the bar with another person and a very talkative bartender. Long story short, it’s New York City, so you never know how any awkward encounter will end up or who is at the bar with you. it ends up after a brief conversation that the bartender, The Other Guy and myself were all really into fragrances. The bartender, like every damn bartender in New York City, had strong opinions on vetiver. The Other Guy scoots up to me and makes me smell him. Weirder things have happened between me and strangers in NYC! He smelled absolutely amazing. It was a smoky, leathery vetiver, almost a like a chypre.

“What is that?!”

“Luigi Borrelli Vicuña Wool.”

I had never heard of it before and I especially didn’t understand it with his Brooklynese. He explained to me that it is from an Italian menswear line. I don’t really have a reason to be up on fancy Italian menswear fashion lines. He said he usually goes there while on business trips in Milan and Florence, where he picked up the fragrance he was wearing. I then noticed that he was really well-dressed and I probably didn’t want to know how much that watch costs. I also learned that day that they also have a store on Madison Avenue and I could try their fragrances there.

I never did.

But, a year later I get an email about these fragrances. They sounded interesting. I love the thought of perfumes inspired by fabrics since I often think of fragrances as textures. The samples were sent to me from Italy. As soon as I sprayed Vicuña Wool, I remembered it as that fragrance That Other Guy was wearing. Suddenly I remembered the brand and was even more excited to try them. Especially, since I could smell them at home instead of around people wearing watches that cost more than graduate school!

Vicuña Wool

Notes listed include lemon, bergamot, black pepper, elemi, nagarmotha, lily of the valley, oakmoss, leather, vetiver, amber, cedarwood, musk and patchouli. Launched in 2016.

To me, Vicuña Wool is the perfect “masculine” fragrance. It’s a smoky vetiver with woods. The opening smells like vetiver bottle rockets. It seriously smells like glamorous fireworks. The citrus smells like incense. It’s like lemon resins. There’s a peppery leather. What I love about this perfume is that it smells natural but also industrial. I’m reminded of natural things like vetiver and elemi, but I’m also reminded of fireworks and sports cars. Like, isn’t that exactly what everyone wants to smell like? Anyway, I love this fragrance. It’s leather, new tires, smoke and musk. It eventually dries down to a classic, mossy chypre with patchouli. The overall feel of it is heavy/dense, just like wool.

Vicuña Wool smells like a classic but it’s also an updated chypre. It’s timeless and dare I say it? It smells tailored. It smells bespoke and expensive. And it smells like something I want to smell like and what I want other people to smell like.

Final EauPINION – Smoky vetiver chypre. It’s perfect.

Cashmere

Notes listed include black pepper, bergamot, dynamone, incense, labdanum, cistus, gaiacwood, vetiver, earthy notes and musk. Launched in 2016.

Cashmere is an incense fragrance. It opens as sweet, balsamic resins sprinkled with spicy black pepper. It eventually becomes more powdery. But, not in a way that is “powder” but more like incense resins and woods. On my skin, it’s a bitter, leathery labdanum softened by woods. Cashmere is a smoky incense. It smells like lit, smoldering incense. The dry-down is like a sour/tangy palo santo, clay and warm skin.

Cashmere is one to try if you like incense perfumes, especially those that aren’t overly liturgical (no frankincense or myrrh). To me, it’s a “desert incense”. It’s arid and dry. It actually reminds me a lot of the discontinued Norma Kamali Incense, a cult classic.

Final EauPINION – A really good incense.

Cotton

Notes listed include bergamot, rose, lavender, orris, clary sage, oakmoss, amber, cedarwood, musk, vanilla and vetiver. Launched in 2016.

To my surprise Cotton is more floral. It’s a really good iris. It opens with a citrus-y rose with an aromatic lavender. And then there’s the rooty iris! It wears like a lavender-iris. It’s herbs, flowers and roots. I can’t help but to think of a cottage garden while wearing this. In the heart, it reminds me of the fabric cotton. It’s a light, airy iris-violet with radiance, like that of Nomenclature Lumen-esce (a synthetic, cool violet composition). I also pick up on something that reminds me of white tea. It’s an ozonic fragrance that isn’t overly “ozonic”. The dry-down is clean and fresh but also substantial. I’m impressed by this because it doesn’t smell like fabric softener, an easy thing to do with a perfume named “Cotton”. Instead, it’s a musky, herbal sage and generic woods. In summary, I was pleasantly surprised by this one. It really is an olfactory equivalent of a classic, timeless white button up.

Final EauPINON – An lavender-iris. I really enjoy Cotton because it’s an aromatic, herbal iris and I don’t have anything like that.

Overall, I think this is a really solid trio of fragrances. Each one has a distinct personality; yet, they smell like they belong in the same collection. I don’t know much about men’s fashion, but it’s easy for me to see these as a wardrobe. Between the three of these, there’s something for any occasion, any season. It’s a really smart line.

Oh, and longevity and projection are above average. And yes, they are a menswear line, but I think they’re unisex. However, my spouse has stolen Vicuña Wool from me and I’m totally fine with that. It smells great on him.

The 3.4 oz bottles retails for €180 at Luigi Borrelli. A discovery set is also available.

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*Disclaimer – Product provided by the brand. I am not financially compensated for my reviews. My opinions are my own. Product pics from the brand.

Original article: Luigi Borrelli Napoli Perfume Reviews

Mainstream Monday – Sniffing a Popular Perfume

There has been a lot of excitement and hype around Arizona because it’s Proenza Schouler’s first fragrance release. It’s been three years in the making (L’Oreal signed a licensing agreement in 2015). The brand has had a laid-back “it” appeal and worn by cool “it” girls like Rooney Mara. I feel like fashion folks were excited to see what a brand like Proenza Schouler would launch. Personally, I was happy to see the American Southwest be an inspiration for such a mainstream designer fragrance. But, ultimately, it’s a designer fragrance backed by L’Oreal so I wasn’t that optimistic.¹

The opening of Arizona is citrus blossoms with a salty cotton candy accord that reminds me of what’s in Mugler Womanity. There’s also an unexpected aquatic quality and generic “red berries” (neither are notes that are listed). Then it’s a fruity orange blossom meets iris. I’m loving this stage but on me, it’s fairly short lived. The heart is like dewy white florals and iris. It’s abstract but still recognizable. In that sense, it reminds me of a Georgia O’Keefe‘s simplified close-ups of flowers. It wears as this abstract, transparent floral for most of the wear. It’s like creamy white florals and salty skin. The dry-down is also abstract. But, this time it is powdery, like orris root and a diffusive amber. It’s definitely the sort of Cashmeran that is in Mugler Alien, but this time it’s a bit more iris-y.

For a fragrance inspired by a landlocked state and the desert, this perfume is surprisingly ozonic/dewy and borderline aquatic. With the white florals, saltiness and warm musk, it’s a very “beachy” fragrance to me. It’s like a sea breeze over warm sand and warm bodies covered in old school white floral tanning oil (think like Bain de Soleil).

Overall, I find Arizona to be a rather pleasing and conventionally pretty fragrance. However, it does seem like it’s created by L’Oreal. In a sense, it smells generic and like any designer brand’s name could have been slapped on it. That doesn’t make it any less enjoyable in my opinion, but it may be disappointing for those that follow the brand more closely than I do.

Notes listed include orris, cactus blossom, jasmine, orange flower, solar accord, musk and cashmeran. Launched in 2018.

Give Arizona a try if you like the idea of a radiant white floral paired with iris. Or perfumes like Jo Malone London Nashi Blossom, Mugler Womanity (especially the summer flankers), Paco Rabanne Olympea (its flankers too), Maison Martin Margiela REPLICA Beach Walk and/or Lolita Lempicka Fleur de Corail. I think Arizona is a smart choice for summer or for when you want to be reminded of summer.

Projection and longevity are average.

Arizona comes in a few sizes with the 1.7 oz retailing for $100 at Saks. There are bath/body products available too. I’m so curious about the dry-oil.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Beachy white florals, salt and a breeze. Arizona is one of those perfumes that I’d probably wear if I had it because it does smell pretty and I don’t have to “think” about it. However, I already own stuff like Mugler Alien Flora Futura and Womanity. Yes, those are different, but I feel like I have the modern, abstract white floral base already covered.

¹I promise I’m not a snob! I’m just saying that a lot of designer perfumes play it safe because ultimately they sign away a license and it’s up to a bigger business to launch whatever and market it.

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*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from FeelUnique. Marlene Clark circa 1970 pic from indiewire.com. Post contains an affiliate link. Thanks!

Original article: Proenza Schouler Arizona Perfume Review

Hello, I’m only reviewing Etro Jacquard because I love the sunny, cheerful bottle.

The opening of a Jacquard is a bitter angelica. So, yeah, it smells a little bit like celery leaves and cedar pencil shavings. There’s a dry, spicy black pepper and bright citrus. As far as citrus go, this is a greener, drier citrus instead of a juicy, pulpy citrus. Then we get to the rest of the fragrance. It’s a sheer, powdery iris with a green violet. This isn’t a cosmetic powdery fragrance. It has dry woods that keep it from going makeup. The rest of it like a musky iris with a dry (and arguably) generic vetiver.

Overall, it’s a pretty basic iris. It’s pretty and I’m not going to lie, I wear perfumes like this a lot (Prada Infusion d’Iris, everything Chanel Les Exclusifs, especially No. 18). However, I don’t need another fragrance like this even if it comes in a sunny, cheerful bottle.

Notes listed include bergamot, angelica, black pepper, elemi, iris, jasmine, ylang-ylang, vetiver, sandalwood, violet and musk. Launched in 2014.

Give Jacquard a try if you like sheer, powdery iris fragrances. Or Yves Saint Laurent Trench, Prada Infusion d’Iris, Xerjoff Ibitira, Lili Bermuda Oleander, Chanel Les Exclusifs 1932 and/or Jo Malone London Iris & Lady Moore.

Projection and longevity are average. The fragrance itself is rather sheer, reminding me of stuff like Chanel Les Exclusifs.

Jacquard retails for $200 for 3.4 oz at Barneys. It sometimes shows up at discounters like Perfume.com.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Peppery iris. Totally adequate fragrance, especially for “day” wear, but I already own plenty of adequate fragrances that I like better. Sadly, none of those are in colorful yellow bottles. Oh, well.

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*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Barneys. Princess Elizabeth of Toro/Edith Bagaaya circa 1967 picture from fuckyeah60sfashion.tumblr.com. Perfume.com contains an affiliate link. Thanks!

Original article: Etro Jacquard Perfume Review

If you didn’t already know, I love fig fragrances.

What makes Vilhelm Purple Fig different than so many other niche fig perfumes? It’s fruity. Purple Fig focuses more on the fruit, or the concept of the fruit, than the leaves or woods. It’s opening is a sparkling, nose-tickling kir royale. It’s like a dry champagne, fruity cassis and zesty lemon. It then smells like juicy blackcurrants and old stone walls (the angelica is almost like a “mineral musk”). These stone walls are covered in ivy. Purple Fig has a cool, green element. As it wears, it becomes a woodsier scent with fig leaves and cedar. But, it still is surrounded by a “fresh atmosphere”. It eventually dries down to damp stepping stones and Mediterranean evergreens.

The feeling of Purple Fig is cheerful. It’s a fun fragrance that brings to mind the perfect summer afternoon. What I appreciate about Purple Fig is that it is a fruity fig that isn’t sugary. It’s fresh, green and more like the atmosphere around fig fruit (instead of fig jam). I described the fragrance in notes, which I’m sure you could deduct from reading the brand’s note list. So, I’m going to tell you how Purple Fig made me feel. It smells like a perfect afternoon. I feel like I’ve met my friends for late afternoon drinks on a day with perfect weather. We’re seated outside, in the shade, on a sunny day. Figs, trees covered in green leaves, little French bistro sets, damp stone patio. We all have good news and everything feels right and for that moment, we all share joy. It sounds corny but Purple Fig smells like happiness.

Notes listed include lemon, cassis, angelica, cyclamen, galbanum, fig, Virginian cedar and cypress. Launched in 2016. PERFUMER – Jerome Epinette

Give Purple Fig a try if you like fruity figs or fruity-green fragrances. Or perfumes like Byredo Pulp, Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig, Pinrose Treehouse Royal and/or Bvlgari Eau Parfumée Au Thé Rouge.

Projection and longevity are average.

The 3.4 oz retails for $245 at Aedes. Samples are also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Fruity fig. I really enjoy it. I own a lot of figs, but most of figs lean green or creamy. I don’t have many fruity figs because in general, I don’t think they are that good. However, Purple Fig is that good.

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Brooklyn Fragrance Lover – Video review

*Sample purchased by me. Product pic from the brand. Iman pic from fanpix.net.

Original article: Vilhelm Purple Fig Perfume Review

I’m reviewing two fruity fragrances from indie brand Aether Arts.

STRAWBERRY SLING

We don’t usually see indie or niche brands tackle strawberry in perfume. The opening of Strawberry Sling is like sipping limoncello in an herb garden. It’s like a sweet, syrupy lemon and mint. It’s also ozonic, like a breeze. Strawberry Sling becomes even more tangy with an addition of juicy strawberries accompanying the tart lemon zest. What I like about Strawberry Sling is that it has greenness from herbs that keep it fresh and “realistic”. It eventually dries down to a refreshing cocktail, or something I wish was a cocktail – brandy, lemons and rose.

Strawberry Sling is a happy, bright fragrance. It’s rare to find something like this that isn’t juvenile or reminiscent of drugstore body sprays. It’s a tangy fruity fragrance that is a nice alternative to the classic “eau de cologne” style of citrus. In my opinion, it’d be a great scent for summer or for “day” wear. Totally unisex.

Notes listed include mint, lemon, verbena, petitgrain, rosemary, cognac, rose and strawberry. Launched in 2016. PERFUMER – Amber Jobin

Final EauPINION – Limoncello in a strawberry patch.

IRIS LAUGHS

Amber’s goal with Iris Laughs was to create an iris perfume that was joyous (I guess, they usually aren’t??). The opening of Iris Laughs smells exactly like Kedem sparkling concord grape juice. It’s effervescent, fruity. This grape juice accord lasts a lot longer than I expected. Eventually the fragrance becomes more of a cool, green floral. It’s a lemon-y rose, green iris and grape juice. The base is sheer and almost transparent. It’s like iris petals, violets and dried grapevines.

The opening reminds me of Evyan White Shoulders (with a bigger budget). The rest of it is an interesting take on the usual fruity-floral. If I had to describe Iris Laughs as a color, I’d describe it as periwinkle – light, pastel but vibrant.

Notes listed include sparkling grape, iris, rose otto, violet leaf, orris and Mysore sandalwood. Launched in 2018. PERFUMER – Amber Jobin

Final EauPINION – Sparkling grape juice floral.

Projection and longevity of both of these are below average. However, Strawberry Sling is an eau de cologne and wears like one. Iris Laughs is a perfume extrait and doesn’t wear like one.

These come in a few sizes with the .19 oz bottle retails for $58 at Aether Arts. Samples are also available for purchase.

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*Disclaimer – Sample provided by the brand. I am not financially compensated for my reviews. My opinions are my own. Product pic from the brand. Pier Angeli in 1957 from “The Vintage”, goodgriefmissagnes.tumblr.com

Original article: Aether Arts Strawberry Sling & Iris Laughs Perfume Reviews

Mainstream Monday – Sniffing a Popular Perfume

Wildfox is a casual ready-to-wear women’s clothing line with that “California cool” aesthetic of distressed denim and snarky typographic t-shirts/sweatshirts that are borderline offensive depending on the audience or manner or wear, but as our society has already ingrained in us, “conventionally” pretty people can get away with a lot.¹ Anyway, the brand licensed a perfume with Revlon/Elizabeth Arden a few years ago. The note list sounds interesting and the bottle is really pretty.

Wildfox is a weird one. It opens with a lot at once. It’s synthetic apricots and honey paired with white florals that sort of come across like a candle/home fragrance. There’s also incense and powdery notes. This sounds like a lot, because it is, but it manages to work. Instead of being thick like velvet, it’s sheer like a slub cotton, which is forgiving to such an “everything but the kitchen sink” composition. On me, it’s mostly a fruity-floral of apricots and delicate “shampoo-ish” florals with an undercurrent of candied-coated powder. Sometimes the honeysuckle is more prominent on me than other times (it reminds me of the sort of honeysuckle/jasmine in Annick Goutal Le Chevrefeuille), other times it’s a powdery amber-peach along the lines of Coty Exclamation. The dry-down is a honeyed amber. It’s sweet but I wouldn’t call it “gourmand”. It’s like a modern oriental-style fragrance.

Overall, this perfume seems like it’d easily fit into a lineup for a brand like Victoria’s Secret. It could easily be a Sexy Little Thing or Bombshell flanker. But, this makes sense. I’d say that both brands potentially share some overlap in consumers. For a designer perfume marketed to teenagers/early 20’s, it’s surprisingly sophisticated without sacrificing its amusement. However, I don’t think the actual fragrance is as amusing as the note list wants you to believe. It’s just a really powdery fruity-floral with some sweetness.

Notes listed include absinthe, apricot, incense, camellia, honeysuckle, jasmine, ambrox, musk and honey. Launched in 2015.

Give Wildfox a try if you like soft fruity-florals. Or perfumes like Victoria’s Secret perfumes, Vera Wang Rock Princess, Marc Jacobs Honey, By Kilian Forbidden Games and/or A Dozen Roses Iced White.

Projection and longevity are below average. It wears more like an EDT.

Wildfox comes in a few sizes with the 1.7 oz retailing for $72 at Nordstrom and Sephora.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Powdery fruity-floral of peaches and night-blooming florals. It’s not as exciting as the note list would leave you to believe, but it’s a pleasant fragrance.

¹As I wrote this review, they launched a 4th of July collection of t-shirts like “Made in America” and “American AF” which is totally fine! Then you see the font and how it’s on red and worn by skinny white women. And there is a bridal collection with stuff like “Trophy Wife”, also “fine” but also an odd thing to wear on sweats. And a shirt that is a spin on “The Future is Female” as “The Future is Silly”. All of this is totally fine under certain circumstances, but I also feel it could be passive-aggressive under other circumstances. Anyway, some of the stuff is cute but some leaves me a little confused. Context, right?

But, like NastyGal (a comparable California-based brand), all the models are thin, tan and usually blonde. It’s very Barbie doll. One glance at their Instagram, I knew it’s not something I can relate to and not a look that many other people will relate to either (which is fine, that’s fashion). Since I’m ranting, one of the things that annoys me with a lot of these sort of brands is how their Insta shows people eating “junk” foods or they have merchandise with cutesy sayings about eating/drinking a lot and the models are all thin and “conventionally” hot. No way in hell they could show a person bigger than size 2 doing or wearing the same thing without enduring tons of online harassment. Somehow it’s cute when one person is holding two giant ice cream cones/eating an entire pizza but not when someone else does it. This isn’t a fault of the brand, just our totally wrecked society. Thanks for listening to my rant/s.

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Fragrantica – Member reviews

XO Jane

*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Lord & Taylor. Patti Hansen and Janice Dickinson in Vogue US 1979 from a Pinterest upload. Post contains affiliate links. Thanks!

Original article: Wildfox Perfume Review

Years ago, when I tried (and fell in love with) Memo Shams Oud, the brand was impossible to get in the U.S. I had a kind “mule” bring it back from Paris. Fast-forward. Now the brand is everywhere in the United States! This is good. Accessibility is a wonderful thing. However, maybe it was the exchange rate, but I didn’t remember the full-size bottles being so pricey. Global expansion must come with some hefty costs.

OK, so Inlé Iris is one of Memo’s “special editions” or Escales Extraordinaires…so it’s even more expensive (over $200 more expensive than Inlé, their osmanthus tea fragrance). Let me see if I can sniff over $200 of differences.

If osmanthus could be a marmalade, that’s the opening of Inle Iris. It’s like dried apricots and oranges with a hint of florals. There’s also a cool, grassy accord that makes me think of early summer mornings.¹ The heart is a white floral looking at the world through apricot-colored lenses. I suspect a generous amount of hedione is in this. It’s one of those radiant, weightless jasmines that really projects. As it wears, it’s like a peachy, jasmine tea. As promised, there’s iris. A powdery, green iris grounds this effervescent fruity-floral. Eventually there’s an addition of white musk and that’s what makes Inlé Iris last on the skin. Overall, this is a radiant, sparkling white floral with a jammy fruitiness. It’s one of those prettier-than-reality perfumes.

I really enjoy this fragrance, but I’m going to be honest. It’s expensive and I don’t think it’s *that* much different from the original, cheaper Inlé. It is different. For example, I think this one is less tea-focused. It has more projection/longevity and there’s a powdery iris. But, $200+ difference? If it were me, I’d rather have two bottles from the “regular” line, but hey, all of this stuff is subjective. I can only speak for myself and what I would do.

Notes listed include bergamot, artemesia, mint, osmanthus, jasmine, mate, musk and iris. Launched in 2016. PERFUMER – Alienor Massenet

Give Inle Iris a try if you like osmanthus or radiant white florals. Or perfumes like Memo Paris Inlé, Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus, EB Florals Nick’s Sunflower, Shanghai Tang Spring Jasmine and/or Carven Le Parfum. I think this is a really pretty, non-suffocating but potent floral for summer. This is also a good perfume for those looking for a “fruity iris” (even though it’s more fruit than iris).

Projection and longevity are above average.

The 2.5 oz retails for $480 at Osswald.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Sparkling floral with marmalade and osmanthus tea. Like I said, I like it. If someone were to give me a bottle, would I wear it? Absolutely. But, I don’t like any perfume enough to spend this kind of money on it.

¹Hey, it’s mint! That’s what is in the note list and I can smell that now.

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Fragrantica – Member reviews

*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from the brand. Kathleen Martin from drmacro.com.

Original article: Memo Paris Inle Iris Perfume Review

Atelier des Ors has launched a trio of new perfumes in their White Collection. These perfumes are primarily citrus/florals, but done in the Atelier des Ors style…they have some heft and aren’t fleeting “eau de colognes”.

I was immediately drawn to Choeur des Anges because of its energetic, effervescent opening. The opening of Choeur des Anges (Choir of Angels) is a luxury creamsicle. It’s a juicy, vivid blood orange with a hint of honeyed sweetness. The blackcurrant adds a “musky tartness” to the world’s fanciest creamsicle. Choeur des Anges is a fruity, juicy citrus but it’s paired with an unexpected mineral note (the carrot seed, which also comes across orris root-ish). The citrus actually lasts in this perfume thanks to a pairing of fruits and fruity florals like orange blossom and osmanthus. These florals come across more like oranges and peaches than they do flowers. Hours into wear when I’ve forgotten about the juicy opening, I kept smelling an animalic amber with a hint of dry spices. I finally realized it was Choeur des Anges. This isn’t a dry-down I expected with something like this but I absolutely love that this is the dry-down we get. Choeur des Anges is a juicy ambrosia-like perfume but Atelier des Ors managed to make this a sophisticated perfume that’s fun but not juvenile. The carrot is unexpected as is the slightly dirty skin dry-down.

Because of the citrus and mineral quality of the carrot seeds, Choeur des Anges reminded me of something but what? Daisy of CoolCookStyle said Flintstones Chewable Vitamins, and yes. That’s it. Adults had to hide those from me because they were my candy of choice. There was also a ritual to it. I started with Dino and finished with the dummy men (Fred and Barney). Anyway, I love this odd association with this fragrance.

Notes listed include blood orange, blackcurrant, pear, orange blossom, carrot seed, osmanthus, cedar, amber and honey. Launched in 2018.

Give Choeur des Anges a try if you like citrus or blood orange fragrances. Or perfumes like DSH Perfumes The Color Orange, Lili Bermuda SunKiss, By Kilian Sweet Redemption, Von Euserdorff NY Classic Orange and/or The Different Company Sienne d’Orange.

Projection and longevity are above average, especially for something so citrus-centric. It lasts all day, even in hot weather.

The 3.3 oz bottle retails for $225 at Osswald. Samples are also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINION – A really glam take on an orange creamsicle or “ambrosia” fragrance. Because it has some subtle weirdness (kid’s vitamins and honey/skin) paired with traditionally pretty notes, this is my favorite perfume in this “citrus as gourmand” genre (like an orange cream pop).

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Persefume

*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Fragrantica. German chorus girls circa 1929 in Vienna pic from billyjane.tumblr.com

Original article: Atelier des Ors Choeur des Anges Perfume Review

Our Modern Lives is a fragrance project by Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays. So what it is? Well, it’s a line of 7 natural botanical-based fragrances and 2 “gentle” synthetics. What I like about it, is that it’s not born out of some marketing scheme disguised as some moralistic “chemicals are bad” propaganda. It’s from demand. Customers wanted naturals and “hypo-allergenic” fragrances so she created a line for them without confusing it with her established, mixed medium 4160 Tuesdays brand. The synthetics are there to be layered with the naturals to increase longevity or to be worn alone. But, what I like is that it is up to the consumer to decide if they would like that or if they’d rather stick to the naturals.

Anyway, this line is an extension of a project that Sarah did years ago where she merged her background as a yoga instructor with that of being a perfumer. She created “yoga room sprays”. That’s why you’ll see these perfumes available as personal fragrance and/or environmental scents.

Here’s my quick reviews:

THE NATURALS

These are the all-natural botanicals that customers were asking for. I’m going to let you know that like so many naturals that I have tried over the years, that projection and longevity are below average in comparison to synthetic and mixed-media perfumes. There’s seven of these and they cover a rainbow of shades.

Harvest – Red – Gratitude

Notes of pink peppercorn, pink grapefruit, hazelnut, hay, Turkish rose, raspberry leaf, oakwood, labdanum, wine and davana.

I tested all of these before reading the note lists. My notes were just “fruity wine”. And that’s what it is supposed to be! It’s like a sangria. It has berries, citrus and red wine. It smells like sunny summer days. It’s one of my favorites from this collection.

Sunset – Orange – Peace

Notes of neroli, rose geranium, Virginian cedar, honeybush, vanilla, peach, blood orange, bergamot, carrot seed, cocoa and bran.

With the orange packaging and name, I expect for this to smell like oranges. It does! It smells like those orange gummy candies that look like orange slices covered in sugar. it eventually becomes a tangy neroli with a hay-like base.

Sunrise – Yellow – Hope

Notes of clementine, yellow mandarin, blood orange, cedrat, sweet orange, lemon petitgran, fennel, cardamom, narcissus, cabreuva and coffee

Like many people, I expect for a yellow perfume to smell like citrus. This one does. It’s a really bright citrus with lemon and oranges. But, this doesn’t smell like the typical “eau de cologne”. It has an expected sweet, earthiness from coffee and fennel in dry-down. It’s a fresh, happy fragrance and it’s super creative. It’s all these usual “fresh, happy” notes but paired with stuff they’re rarely paired with (like coffee and fennel).

Leaf – Green – New

Notes of bergamot mint, jasmine tea, green mandarin, Calbrian bergamot, cucumber and spinach.

Green, as expected, is verdant. It’s like a perfume equivalent of “green juice”. It’s minty cucumbers, lemon and dark, leafy greens. That may sound weird for a perfume, but I’m actually really drawn to this one because it smells like gardens and green juice. It’s my favorite out of the collection.

Waves/WiFi – Aquamarine – Clarity

Notes of English lavender, white grapefruit, rosemary, olive fruit, jasmine sambac, blue hemlock, jasmine tea and seaweed.

In my opinion, this is the weirdest one. It smells like seaweed and vinaigrette (olive oil, salt and rosemary). It eventually smells like a heady jasmine. I’m still trying to wrap my head/nose around this one. It’s weird but that’s good! This is why I love indie perfume so much.

Blue Screen/Blue Horizon – Perspective

Notes of English lavender, bergamot, frankincense, lavender, vetivert, eucalyptus mint and patchouli

I mostly get lavender and vetiver from this one. My notes also said “green peanuts”. And once I picked up on green peanuts (for those of you that are Southern like myself, think boiled peanuts), I couldn’t “unsniff” this aspect of the perfume. But, then I started to love it for this.

Indigo – Into the Night

Notes of cognac, black tea, osmanthus, blackcurrant bud, Atlas cedar, jasmine sambac, labdanum and rum

Out of all of these, Indigo is the “darkest”. It reminds me of coconut water and fancy, fruity liqueurs. The jasmine sort of comes across like a plum syrup. Anyway, if this was interpreted as a rum-based cocktail, I’d happily drink it. Out of all seven of these, Indigo has the most swagger.

Overall, these smell “natural” (duh), but are different than a lot of natural brands I’ve tried. It seems that the palette expands past “aromantherapy” and there are some interesting interpretations of the rainbow hues here. My favorites as a personal fragrance are Green and Red. My personal favorites for a room spray include Aquamarine and Indigo.

THE SYNTHS

These are the hypo-allergenic layering bases. Basically, these are described as “gentle” and even though it’s completely possible to be allergic to these, there’s less of a risk in comparison to naturals. That’s one thing that doesn’t get talked about that much in perfumery. Most of the times if you are allergic to something in a fragrance (develop a rash, etc.), that something was most likely a natural. Nature has to always “one up” us humans! Anyway, Sarah made these in response to those asking for a “gentle” fragrance. So, here they are: stripped down synthetics with a positive track record.

OML Alpha

A woodsy amber

This is a woodsy amber that smells like the base of a lot of perfumes. It’s that sharp woods that I smell in a lot of mainstream masculines. It’s not my thing but I can see it working for people that like Escentric Molecules.

OML Beta

Musk and woods.

I can barely smell this one at all. I can tell it’s musk but that’s about it. It’s like the epitome of “skin scent” in that you can’t really smell much of it. If anything, it reminds me of iced vodka and some airy musk.

I think it’s a good idea and I like how the brand responded to customers wanting naturals. There’s a lot of transparency with these. I like seeing them presented as not something like good/bad (like a lot of “clean beauty” marketing). Like you have to comply to IFRA’s standards in Europe. Aromachemicals have already been evaluated for safety, etc. But, that doesn’t mean that a person may not be allergic. There’s a misconception that “natural” equates to safe. This brand helps to address those misconceptions but also gives customers botanical perfumes. It’s not that one is better than the other, it’s just sometimes you do want something that seems different. And I think in this case, these seem less “corporate” and more creative…and seven of them just happen to be natural too.

Currently the brand is available at 4160 Tuesdays. Full-sizes and discovery sets are available for purchase. There’s also an environment/room spray that can also double as a light personal fragrance.

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I Scent You a Day

The Women’s Room